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> Mt Lemmon (Sant…
> Mt Lemmon (Cata…
> 8 - Summit Crags
> Fortress
> Southeast Face
Alcazar
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2.5 from 4
votes
Routes in Southeast Face
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Alcazar S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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As You Like It S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Camelot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chapalot S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cyberwanker S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Finishing School S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Forced Stress S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fort Stress S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gargoyle S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Inner Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Name 1 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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No Name 2 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Pitched Battle T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Quartz Jester S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rupley Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sir Clipalot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sneak Attack S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Steel Crazy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tres Frijoles S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Yo Yo Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Scott Ayers, Mark Hathaway, & Peter Noebels (1993) |
| Page Views: | 813 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Hendrixson on Aug 3, 2014 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
This area is historically used by nesting falcons, hawks, owls or other raptors. Breeding season varies but is roughly February through July. Nesting raptors are protected by law.
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Description
Ascend plates to obtain a high first bolt. Continue on blocky features until they give way at a horizontal band. Follow a vertical seam using deceptive, crystal-like nubs past two bolts. Climb sustained face and edges for the next forty feet. Pull a final lip to reach the chains.
Alcazar is an engaging pitch on solid rock that deserves more traffic. That said other than a few splendid sidepulls, the climbing is a monotonous sea of edges. In my opinion Chapalot is the better route due its wilder and more interesting movement.
Alcazar is an engaging pitch on solid rock that deserves more traffic. That said other than a few splendid sidepulls, the climbing is a monotonous sea of edges. In my opinion Chapalot is the better route due its wilder and more interesting movement.
Location
Upon reaching the Fortress, hike down the left (southeast) side until a narrow slot appears. Hike through this passageway. At the far end of the passageway are two sport routes with high first bolts. Alcazar is the left; Chapalot is the right.
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