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 ADVANCED
Middle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Albuquerque Route T,S,TR 
Bats in the Belfry T 
Cowboy Bob's Chickenhead Delight T 
Unknown T 
Unknown (East of ABQ) S 

Albuquerque Route 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 538
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Jul 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Toprope climber at the shared anchor of the Albuqu...

Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This nice face climb passes two bolts (and an optional cam placement) to a third bolt at the well-protected crux overlap/bulge. More nice friction face leads past one more bolt to an easy stance at the anchors in a nice exposed ampitheatre below the headwall. Easy to set this one for a toprope with a 60m rope.

Described by both Foley (2005) and Jackson (2006).

Location 

Ascends near the center of the southern face of Middle Rock. When approaching from the parking lot, the social trails generally lead you to the middle-western end of Middle Rock (near Bats in the Belfry), and the Albuquerque route lies about 65 feet farther right, around the massive spruce tree that grows right next to the wall (yeah, I know, that's not all that helpful).

Protection 

Four bolts lead to a 2-bolt anchor (no chains). After the second bolt, it is possible to traverse slightly left to a quartz-filled seam and place a cam (any from #.75 to #2 camalot) with a long runner. You can easily clip the 3rd bolt before working out the crux bulge.


Photos of Albuquerque Route Slideshow Add Photo
Top rope running right of route.
BETA PHOTO: Top rope running right of route.

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