Albuquerque Route 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | ? |
| Submitted By: | Chris Wenker on Jul 7, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Toprope climber at the shared anchor of the Albuqu...
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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>
The remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
A new online Tres Piedras Route Guide from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note. From the guide:
Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiver found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner, requests a waiver, NO fires, no chalk and "please close any gates".
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
On August 19, 2009 the landowner stated: "Yes I still own the property, and yes I'd still like to have waivers on hand - even or perhaps especially from your organization. Only once in awhile do I have problems with climbers, mostly not picking up after themselves. My biggest gripe is that despite repeated requests, the climbers don't remove protection (edit: colored webbing, shiny hardware) from the climbing routes, which is both lazy and unattractive. Your organization could do me a big favor by doing a group climb and removing the crap that others have left on the various routes so that it is both a pristine part of the landscape, and so that each climber must figure out his own route without relying on the handiwork of others."
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This nice face climb passes two bolts (and an optional cam placement) to a third bolt at the well-protected crux overlap/bulge. More nice friction face leads past one more bolt to an easy stance at the anchors in a nice exposed ampitheatre below the headwall. Easy to set this one for a toprope with a 60m rope.
Described by both Foley (2005) and Jackson (2006).
Location Ascends near the center of the southern face of Middle Rock. When approaching from the parking lot, the social trails generally lead you to the middle-western end of Middle Rock (near Bats in the Belfry), and the Albuquerque route lies about 65 feet farther right, around the massive spruce tree that grows right next to the wall (yeah, I know, that's not all that helpful).
Protection Four bolts lead to a 2-bolt anchor (no chains). After the second bolt, it is possible to traverse slightly left to a quartz-filled seam and place a cam (any from #.75 to #2 camalot) with a long runner. You can easily clip the 3rd bolt before working out the crux bulge.
BETA PHOTO: Top rope running right of route.
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