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Albion Basin is one of the most beautiful areas in the entire wasatch. Spectacular views of Devils Castle, Mt Wolverine, Tuscarora, etc etc. A plethora of wildlife, wild flowers, and rock make this a superb summer climbing destination. Please walk lightly in this area. I can see access becoming a major issue if the laws of the land are not obeyed. Most of the climbing consists of quartzite that can be ascended and descended with a single rope. There are also some nice limestone sport routes within in a close proximity to the southeastern most campground. With the exception of the devils caste routes (listed under devils castle) all routes are a single pitch. With very few exceptions the routes are primarily bolt protected. However, multi-pitch mixed gear (trad/sport) routes exist on devils castle.
Drive up little cottonwood, through a gate guarded by a nice person giving out trail maps. continue up the canyon, little cottonwood continues and eventually turns to dirt. Follow the dirt road until it ends at a campground directly below devils castle.
62 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Albion Basin:
You're Nicked, Who's Next? 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 45' Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
Featured Route For Albion Basin
Shadow of the Blade 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Devil's Castle
P1 - Ascend the compact face on good rock to a big ledge. (5.10d)P2 - The next pitch is slightly overhanging for 90' until the angle kicks back. Look for ledges on the right...big holds. (5.10)P3 - Climb a steep slab traversing left to a short overhanging hand crack. Protect this and the crack above with cams. (5.9)P4 - Short easy, scrambling leads to a belay next to a prominent dead tree...loose rubble on ledges. Be careful.P5 - Bolt protected face leads 90' to a belay ledge. (5.7 or 5.8)P6 - D...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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