Climbers on the Albigna Hut Slabs with Albigna Dam...
Albigna Valley offers fun, enjoyable climbing on short to medium length routes in a spectacular alpine setting. The climbing consists of mainly steep slabs on beautifully textured granite offering fantastic friction that is said to resemble the granite domes of Tuolumne Meadows in California. Most of the routes have first rate double bolt belays, at good stances, and because some of the pitches are only partially bolted, a light alpine rack would be a good idea.
The cable car up to the valley offers quick and easy access to the Albigna Hut where many of the climbs are accessed from. Members of alpine clubs having reciprocal rights with the Swiss Alpine-Club get discount rates in huts (we paid about 50 francs). Half board covers accommodation (bedding provided), dinner and breakfast (Beer is extra and expensive!). This means you are only ever carrying climbing gear, lunch, and layering allowing you to travel light and fast. Although climbing crowds are quiet to moderate (weekdays), the hut is on a popular hiking trail so should be booked in advance.
Alternatively, Camping Mulina at Vicosoprano is a mile down the road from the cable-car station at Pranzaira. Expect at least an hour’s hike from the cable car station at Albigna Dam to most of the climbs.
There’s a restaurant offering great pizza and beer on the main road between Camping Mulina and Pranzaira.
Although this is mainly considered as an area for acclimatizing before hitting the nearby Sciora and Piz Badile, this area offers fantastic climbing in its own right.
Two good guides are: Bregaglia Climbing '09: Albigna (2009) PDF File by Chris Mellor. Available for download in PDF for US $10.81 from Needle Sports: www.needlesports.com/acatalog/Mail_Order_Switzerland_118.htm>>> Or Schweiz Plaisir Sud by Jurg Von Kanel, published by Edition Filidor in 1998 (French, Italian and German), ISBN – 3-906087-09-3
From Zurich drive south to Chur and then head over the Julier Pass to Silvaplana. From Silvaplana drive south-west over to the Maloja Pass toward Vicosoprano. You will reach the cable car station at Pranzaira just before the turn off to Camping Mulina in Vicosoprano.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Albigna Valley:
Via Leni was one, if not the first modern route in the E face of Spazzacaldeira. Due to the easy access (15 minutes from cable car) on weekends it draws lots of crowds. It begins with an uneven slab/face. Crux is a slightly overhanging move at the end of pitch 2.Descent: 20 Meter rap into a small couloir. walk/scramble down SW...[more]Browse More Classics in International