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Alberto Rabadá o Murciana
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in 2. Mallo Pison & El Puro
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Alberto Rabadá o Murciana S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Chopper S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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La Carnavalada S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Normal al Mallo Pisón S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Normal al Puro S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Via Pany-Haus T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,457 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Rick Ziegler on Apr 13, 2014 |
| Admins: | Robert Hall, Jason Halladay, David Riley |
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Description
Located on Mallo Pisón, this is the closest big mallo to town. Murciana is the most popular route on this formation and for good reason. Originally done over 12 days in 1976 and dedicated to Spanish climbing hero, Alberto Rabadá. This has been retro bolted and is a classic sport climb.
After a gear and bolt protected first pitch, several beautiful, steep and pumpy 5.10 bolt protected pitches lead to a big ledge. The 11+ (or 5.10/A0) crux pitch is next with hard bouldery moves to get over a bulges. Two bulgy pitches get to the top. As with most Riglos routes, all bulges can be aided at 5.10/A0. However, the second should have prussiks ready if they fall on the last pitch bulge.
After a gear and bolt protected first pitch, several beautiful, steep and pumpy 5.10 bolt protected pitches lead to a big ledge. The 11+ (or 5.10/A0) crux pitch is next with hard bouldery moves to get over a bulges. Two bulgy pitches get to the top. As with most Riglos routes, all bulges can be aided at 5.10/A0. However, the second should have prussiks ready if they fall on the last pitch bulge.
Location
South face of El Pisón. Look for the white streak right of center. Starts in a right facing dihedral.
The standard descent is rappelling the east shoulder of El Pisón (some 35m raps). Then following a wire to the descent gully (more 35m raps and some via ferrata style downclimbing). Be careful of climbers below. There's plenty of loose rock.
The standard descent is rappelling the east shoulder of El Pisón (some 35m raps). Then following a wire to the descent gully (more 35m raps and some via ferrata style downclimbing). Be careful of climbers below. There's plenty of loose rock.
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