Alberta Falls Wall 5.11
| 497 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches, 480 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Josh Gross, Mado Gross, Adam Baxter 5/17/11 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Spring, Summer, Fall |
| Submitted By: | Josh Gross on Jul 13, 2012 |
| |
Alberta Falls Wall.
Zoom in for route location.
Add Photo  Printer View
Description P1. Start up short crack on the left, traverse 30 feet right to base of the roof system. A 0.4 BD is nice. 5.8R. Don't combine p1 and p2 due to rope drag!
P2. Pull through roof crack to a ledge belay with a fixed pin. Belay using a 0.3, 0.4, and 0.75 Camalot. 5.11.
P3. Climb a nice, steep splitter to pod and go left. Once on the slab above splitter, head up and right to tree belay. 5.10+.
P4. Head up corner behind tree then head right. Face climb over a short bulge via a left-facing flake. 5.8R.
P5. Climb up left-facing chinmey/crack to a tree belay. 5.8+.
Top out by scrambling up and left via 4th class ramp.
Descent: Scramble back to top of 5th pitch. Rap.
1st anchor tree, 30 meter.
2nd anchor boulder/tree, 32 meters.
3rd anchor tree 60 meter to ground.
Location This route climbs the splitters on the center walls left side.
Protection Double 0 - 2# Camalots. An extra 0.5 #Camalot is nice!
3# Camalot, 4# Camalot, micro-large wires, 8 runners, extra webbing for descent anchors.
2 60 meter ropes.
Arriving at P1 belay.
|
P2 Steep!
| |
| Comments on Alberta Falls Wall |
|
By Adam Baxter
From: Estes Park, CO
Aug 8, 2012
| Pitches 2 and 3 are stellar, steep crack climbing. 3+ stars for those pitches alone. The rest of the route is moderate and not of the same quality. With its short pitches and in your face (re: splitter!) cruxes, this route is reminiscent of Eldo with a little granite flavor. The gear is excellent where you want it and the climbing moderate where its not. Overall, a worthy outing. Thanks for finding this, Josh! |
|
RSS Feed
more...
Slideshow
