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Alberta Falls Wall
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Alberta Falls Wall T 

Alberta Falls Wall 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 480'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Josh Gross, Madoline Gross, Adam Baxter, 5/17/11
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 933
Submitted By: Josh Gross on Jul 13, 2012

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Description 

P1. Start up short crack on the left, traverse 30 feet right to base of the roof system. A 0.4 BD is nice. 5.8R. Don't combine p1 and p2 due to rope drag!

P2. Pull through roof crack to a ledge belay with a fixed pin. Belay using a 0.3, 0.4, and 0.75 Camalot. 5.11.

P3. Climb a nice, steep splitter to pod and go left. Once on the slab above splitter, head up and right to tree belay. 5.10+.

P4. Head up corner behind tree then head right. Face climb over a short bulge via a left-facing flake. 5.8R.

P5. Climb up left-facing chinmey/crack to a tree belay. 5.8+.

Top out by scrambling up and left via 4th class ramp.

Descent: Scramble back to top of 5th pitch. Rap.

1st anchor tree, 30 meter.
2nd anchor boulder/tree, 32 meters.
3rd anchor tree 60 meter to ground.

Location 

This route climbs the splitters on the center walls left side.

Protection 

Double 0 - 2# Camalots. An extra 0.5 #Camalot is nice!
3# Camalot, 4# Camalot, micro-large wires, 8 runners, extra webbing for descent anchors.
2 60 meter ropes.


Photos of Alberta Falls Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Arriving at P1 belay.
Arriving at P1 belay.
P2 Steep!
P2 Steep!

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By Adam Baxter
From: Estes Park, CO
Aug 8, 2012

Pitches 2 and 3 are stellar, steep crack climbing. 3+ stars for those pitches alone. The rest of the route is moderate and not of the same quality. With its short pitches and in your face (re: splitter!) cruxes, this route is reminiscent of Eldo with a little granite flavor. The gear is excellent where you want it and the climbing moderate where its not. Overall, a worthy outing. Thanks for finding this, Josh!