Alberta Falls Wall  5.11

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Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 480 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Josh Gross, Mado Gross, Adam Baxter 5/17/11 New Route:  Yes Season:  Spring, Summer, Fall Submitted By:  Josh Gross on Jul 13, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Alberta Falls Wall.
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Description 

P1. Start up short crack on the left, traverse 30 feet right to base of the roof system. A 0.4 BD is nice. 5.8R. Don't combine p1 and p2 due to rope drag!

P2. Pull through roof crack to a ledge belay with a fixed pin. Belay using a 0.3, 0.4, and 0.75 Camalot. 5.11.

P3. Climb a nice, steep splitter to pod and go left. Once on the slab above splitter, head up and right to tree belay. 5.10+.

P4. Head up corner behind tree then head right. Face climb over a short bulge via a left-facing flake. 5.8R.

P5. Climb up left-facing chinmey/crack to a tree belay. 5.8+.

Top out by scrambling up and left via 4th class ramp.

Descent: Scramble back to top of 5th pitch. Rap.

1st anchor tree, 30 meter.
2nd anchor boulder/tree, 32 meters.
3rd anchor tree 60 meter to ground.

Location 

This route climbs the splitters on the center walls left side.

Protection 

Double 0 - 2# Camalots. An extra 0.5 #Camalot is nice!
3# Camalot, 4# Camalot, micro-large wires, 8 runners, extra webbing for descent anchors.
2 60 meter ropes.

Photos of Alberta Falls Wall Slideshow

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Arriving at P1 belay.

P2 Steep!