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Pearly Gates
Routes Sorted
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Albatross T 
Angelic Curses T 
Celestial Groove T 
Cell Phone Posse T 
Cloud Nine T 
Dog Ate My Topo, The S 
Easy Pickins T 
Golden Delicious  T 
Heavens Sake T 
Last Rites T 
Leap of Faith T,S 
Loaves of Fun T 
Lost Souls T 
Meathooks of Mercy T 
Milky Way S 
No Room For Squares T 
Pearly Gates T 
Poison Balance T 
Purgatory T 
Scene is Clean, The S 
TOOL TIME S 
Veins of Glory S 

Albatross 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 287
Submitted By: Eric Fjellanger on Sep 16, 2008

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Contemplating the crux on Albatross

Description 

Albatross starts up a straightforward finger crack in a corner. At the top of this gain a stance in an awkward little alcove and struggle to place some gear to protect the flaring, dirty, leftward finger traverse. After climbing this for a couple yards it is possible to move into an upper crack and continue up and left. Stand on top of a block and clip the first bolt. The crux is here, figuring out how to reach the horizontal break at the edge of the bulge from which you can clip the second bolt.

Location 

This is the first route on the right side of Pearly Gates. From the ground you can see the two bolts at the crux bulge.

Protection 

Standard trad rack to 2". Small cams are useful. The crux is bolted, as is the anchor, and a 60m rope is long enough to TR.


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