This is a nice sunny slab (South exposure, like Humphrey's, makes this one of the earlier climbing areas to "thaw" in the spring) with some cool routes.
Most of the routes start from a ledge that is about 30 ft above the top of the talus. This ledge is accessed from the right side of the cliff. The access moves are on slabby rock which is often covered with leaves and/or pine needles; some will prefer a rope here. Once established on the ledge one can move fairly freely, but belayers should be cognizant of the drop off and tie in.
NOTE: Part, if not all, of the approach and climbing is on private property. Needless to say, treat the land gently, climb quietly, and climb carefully.
You can view the slab from a large, sandy pull-out which is 0.9 miles south on Rt 113 (and about 0.1 - 0.2 Mi south of a brown cottage on the pond).
On Rt 16, a few miles south of Conway Village and the "Kanc", and 1.0 mile south of where Rt 113 branches left (south) is a pull-out on the right (north). Park near the "Conway end" of this and, starting at a 3ft high boulder, go straight into the woods (up steeply at first) to an open area that's been logged, then angle slightly right through the mostly open woods. About 5-8 min from the car you'll intersect a "woods road", turn right and follow this to a large boulder on the left with cairn(s) marking the very obvious hiker's path. Follow this through a swampy area and gain the dry land beyond. Now, 3 choices:
1) Diagonal off right and though the HUGE boulders, then up to the right side of the cliff and the scramble ledge where most climbs start.
2) Continue on the hiker's path which leads to the open talus field (some cairns), up this about 1/2 way and then cut right to the steep slope ABOVE the huge boulders mentioned in #1, hike right on steep ground, slabbing across just below the base of the cliff to the far right and the scramble.
3) Continue on the hiker's path to the summit. Enjoy the view and sign the register. Find the fixed, double-bolt anchor at the top of "Reeling in the Fears" and rap with 2 ropes. (Don't believe the " 105 ft" indicated by some guidebook(s) !) This approach is, of course, much easier if, at one time, you've climbed the route from below and know where the anchors are in relationship to the summit!
Weather station 6.2 miles from here
5 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Albany Slabs
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Albany Slabs:
Featured Route For Albany Slabs
Standard and Poors 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
: Albany Slabs
If the 35-yr-old 1/4" bolts were replaced, this would garner additional stars as a lead. With a directional or two it can be Top Roped using 2 ropes from the "Reelin'" Dbl Bolt anchor.Pretty sustained climbing on excellent rock. START: About 20 ft left of "Tao of Dow" on a slab with an arching overlap above. Up the slab and over the overlap, then up diagonally left 20-30 ft (coming within 10 ft or so of "Reelin' ") to a small stance (bolt) then straight up to a steeper swell (bolt), climb over ...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Mother Nature reclamation project.
BETA PHOTO: From view point on Rt 113
By john strand
From: southern colo
Feb 8, 2010
Some very nice bouldering under the slab as well, up to V8 or so.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jan 30, 2014
We need some nice photos for this area. Anybody have any?