Albacore

An excellent first pitch, unfortunately marred by the loose top. This route is the central crack of the slab, about 10m left of the arete. Start on the enormous boulder at the bottom of the cliff.

P1. Step across the void between the boulder and the cliff to get established on the slab. Move immediately left to a broken depression then up to a line of good holds leading rightwards. Follow these to the main crack system. The first 20m or so up the cracks is pretty straightforward, excellent gear, face holds, not too steep... Then it starts to steepen, the face holds disappear, and good jamming is necessary to make progress. Fortunately the gear is still exemplary! Just below an overhang, the crack narrows to fingers and a final hard move gains an awkward belay beneath the overhang. Although there is a much better ledge above, it is advisable to belay here as the overlap provides some protection to the belayer against falling debris from the second pitch!

P2. Steep jamming above the belay leads to a big ledge and a wide crack. Climb the crack (often dirty) and then scramble cautiously up the loose, earthy gully above. Not the worst on the island but pretty harrowing. Tactical placement of the ab rope will provide comfort to the leader, but perhaps the second would prefer you to to just be careful!

Start on the huge (bungalow-size) boulder at the bottom of the cliff

Lots. A big cam (BD #3 or #4) will be comforting if you want protection in the P2 crack, although a chockstone near the top can be slung awkwardly.