Stikine Ice Cap

Burkett Needle (L) and Mt Burkett (R) from the air...

Description 

The Southeast panhandle of Alaskan is a labyrinthine landscape of massive islands, wandering straits and mysterious mainland mountain ranges. The region’s independent fishing communities are few and far between, connected by complex networks of seaborn ferries and propeller driven air fleets that give the area a frontier feel, where opportunities abound, and the stakes are high.

Along the still disputed Canadian border, just over 100 miles southeast of Juneau, lies a massive network of ice-choked valleys and slicing granite spires known as the Stikine Ice Cap. Summits in this part of the world are not terribly high, and perhaps this has doomed the region to relative obscurity, but what these peaks lack in height they make up for in Napoleonic aggression. Home to such fearsome sights as the Devil’s Thumb, Burkett Needle, and the Cat’s Ear Spires, the Stikine Ice Cap is brimming with possibilities.

This region is known for its uncooperative weather, so any expedition should prepare accordingly. Precipitation is extreme, due to the coastal proximity, and dense fog is pervasive. Ascents in this region have been made at all times of year, though mid to late summer ascents are the most common.

Getting There 

Home to a robust economy based on fishing, logging, and the seasonal Cruise Ship industry, the quaint Scandinavian village of Petersburg, AK provides all the amenities and the perfect jumping-off point for an adventure on the Ice Cap. Alaska Airlines offers service to Petersburg from Seattle and other major Alaskan cities. From Petersburg, air travel to the ice cap can be arranged via TEMSCO Helicopters, Inc http://www.temscoair.com. Be advised air travel is extremely constrained by weather conditions. Lodging, food & cooking fuel are readily available in town, but climbing-specific equipment is not available. The local city park offers reasonably priced camping for those awaiting a “Thumb’s Up Day” for air transport.

Another option for the pure of heart (or light of wallet) is to arrange boat transport to the toe of the Baird Glacier and ski/trek up onto the ice cap.

The Classics

Featured Route For Stikine Ice Cap

Direct East Ridge 5.8+ Mod. Snow  AK : Stikine Ice Cap : Devil's Thumb

The Direct East Ridge is the route immortalized in Steck & Roper's "Fifty Classic Climbs of North America". Though an excellent climb, the route is anything but 'direct', as it replaces a few hundred yards of steep snow with half a day of rock climbing. The route gains the East Ridge at the lowest point at which its steep rock buttresses first protrude through the surrounding snow slopes, rather than climbing steep snow on the SE face to gain t...[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

Photos of Stikine Ice Cap Slideshow

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Map of the Stikine Ice Cap with key landmarks indi...	Flying over Thomas Bay, approaching the Patterson ...	The southwest aspect of Devil's Thumb, with the Ca...