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Right Side Cliff 


Yellow Bluff

Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 19, 2008
Administrators: saxfiend, Brad Killough IV
Latitude: 34.4353  Longitude: -86.6746 
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Don't trespass outside SCC boundaries MORE INFO >>>

Bradley leading a new route called "Little Angry J...


Description 

Apart from being a great climbing area, Yellow Bluff is the latest triumph of ownership by climbers of once-closed crags. As of March 2009, a sizeable chuck of this cliff is owned by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition (SCC).

Located near Huntsville, Yellow Bluff is a long (about 1500') unbroken hard sandstone cliff. Development began in the 1980s with the discovery of the cliff by Atlanta climber Shannon Stegg. Numerous trad lines were established by Stegg and other pioneers, including James Dobbs and Curt and Betty Jo Merchant. Later, local leaders like Jesse Guthrie began putting up sport routes, including Guthrie's Rainbow Warrior (5.13a/b), the first 5.13 in Alabama. The quality of climbing at Yellow Bluff attracted attention from as far away as NY; climbers flocked to sample the excellent sandstone crack lines.

Unfortunately, this growing popularity was Yellow Bluff's downfall. The crag was on private property, and the owner was tolerant as long as climbing was a low-profile affair. But when articles extolling the cliff appeared in national climbing magazines, the owner reacted negatively to the increased traffic. Yellow Bluff was closed to climbing.

All that changed in late 2008 as long-standing efforts by the SCC finally bore fruit. In early December, the SCC announced that it had secured a contract to purchase the right half of Yellow Bluff. Fund-raising efforts to secure the money for the purchase quickly gained steam, and the $34,000 purchase price was quickly raised through grants and donations from individuals. The contract was finalized in March 2009 and Yellow Bluff is now open for climbing.


Getting There 

From Birmingham, take I-65 north for about 70 miles to exit 328. Go east on SR 36, then take a right on SR 67. Just before the crossroads for the small town of Florette, turn left on All Jersey Road, which changes shortly to Jenkins Road. When Jenkins Rd. dead ends at Fowler Road, turn left and continue a quarter-mile to where it dead ends and turn right, then take a slight left onto West Point Road. The pull-off for Yellow Bluff is about a quarter-mile on the left.

From Atlanta, take I-20 west into Alabama for about 110 miles to the Pell City area. Take exit 158A to US 231 North. Continue on 231 through Oneonta (as you'd go for Palisades) and past Cleveland, about 50 miles. Shortly after crossing US 278, take a left on SR 67 and follow this about 20 miles. Just before the Florette crossroads, turn right on Pines Road; follow this for about a mile to a sharp left onto Fowler Road. Continue as noted above to Yellow Bluff.

An area is being cleared to make a parking lot; until this is completed, park on the gravel shoulder across the road. From the parking lot area, follow the obvious trail marked with surveyors tape. A five-minute hike will bring you to the base of the cliff.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Yellow Bluff:
Dirty Love   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Right Side Cliff
Little Angry Jamie   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Right Side Cliff
unnamed 1   5.10     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Right Side Cliff
Orange Crush   5.11a     Trad, 80 feet   Right Side Cliff
Browse More Classics in Yellow Bluff

Photos of Yellow Bluff Slideshow Add Photo
Will Eccleston leading Orange Crush. Photo: Andrew Kornylak.

Will Eccleston leading Orange Crush. Photo: Andrew...

Matthew Gant on Orange Crush.

Matthew Gant on Orange Crush.

Do not pass this point.

BETA PHOTO: Do not pass this point.

Overhanging sandstone at Yellow Bluff.

Overhanging sandstone at Yellow Bluff.

More rock at Yellow Bluff.

More rock at Yellow Bluff.

Mr. Liles himself.

Mr. Liles himself.

Brad K. & Curt Merchant.

Brad K. & Curt Merchant.

Bradley Killough doing his part on the trail.

Bradley Killough doing his part on the trail.

One of the locals.

One of the locals.

another one of the locals.

another one of the locals.

Bradley leading Orange Crush.

Bradley leading Orange Crush.

Brad K., Betty Jo Merchant, and Roy Simmons.

Brad K., Betty Jo Merchant, and Roy Simmons.

MMMMMM good chalk. Good for heartburn hehe

MMMMMM good chalk. Good for heartburn hehe

Bradley leading Orange Crush.

Bradley leading Orange Crush.

Greg T. working up a sport route at Yellow Bluff

Greg T. working up a sport route at Yellow Bluff


Comments on Yellow Bluff Add Comment
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By gus
From: Alabama
Nov 19, 2008

go to www.seclimbers.org to make a donation to help purchase this crag!

By chris mcclendon
From: Gardendale, Alabama
Dec 5, 2008

soo....they r announcing the location of this place this saturday at the triple crown. does that mean that this place is gonna be public sunday?????i was gonna go to sandrock but if its open id like to check it out

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Atlanta, GA
Dec 5, 2008

Chris -- no, the new crag will be announced, but the purchase won't actually close until early February. Enjoy Sand Rock!

JL