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Oyster 

5.10a

   

FA: unknown
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 435 page views

Submitted By: saxfiend on Mar 5, 2007


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Brad K. on Oyster.


Description 

The intimidation factor on this nice sport route is the big roof near the top. If you're smart, you'll use the spacious ledge about half-way up to regain some energy for the pumpy finish.

Climb the steep face on good holds past three bolts to a ledge. Trend left, following the bolted line, then move right to a roof. A well-placed bolt protects the final moves to pull the roof on nice jugs.

NOTE: Oyster is the subject of some confusion with neighboring routes on the south side of Holiday block. In the Dixie Cragger's Atlas, the listing for Gravy Train actually describes Oyster, while the listing for Oyster should be labeled as Rabies (5.11a). Some consider Oyster a retrobolt of the trad line Gravy Train, but the two climbs, while close in proximity, are separate routes with distinctly different climbing character.


Location 

Starts at the left end of the south side of Holiday Block, just right of Gravy Train. Lower off/rap from anchors.


Protection 

Eight bolts; ring anchors at the top.



Photos of Oyster Slideshow Add Photo
Oyster.

Oyster.

Oyster, 5.10

Oyster, 5.10


Comments on Oyster Add Comment
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By gus
From: Alabama
Oct 23, 2007

this route goes on gear too. If you do it trad, its called "The Real Oyster."

By Brad Killough IV
Administrator
From: hartselle, Alabama
Nov 13, 2008

I've done this route 20 or so times and I didn't realize it to go trad. That's awesome!!

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Atlanta, GA
May 31, 2009
rating: 5.10a

Finally got around to leading Oyster after all these years. Really nice climbing! The rest ledge is a real arm-saver.

By Tim Herold
From: Ellijay, GA
6 days ago
rating: 5.10

Pretty fun, with a great view up top.