Some climbers turn up their noses at Sand Rock, and it's not hard to understand why. Far from being a pristine wilderness setting, Sand Rock is a destination not just for climbers but for ATV riders, late-night partiers and other examples of southern stereotypes. Broken beer bottles and other trash are not a rare sight, and the cliffs are despoiled with spray-painted graffiti.
If you can get past the aesthetics and focus on the climbing, however, Sand Rock is actually an excellent destination. Its free-standing pinnacles offer an amazing variety of climbing, ranging from easy toprope jugfests, to crimpy face routes, to fine crack lines. Sport routes run side-by-side with tough trad climbs. Beginners can get easy access to set up topropes, and there's a plethora of good bouldering problems. And the many different areas are spread out enough that you can almost always find a place that isn't crowded. The approach is one of the shortest and easiest in the south -- walk about 100 feet from your car and you'll find yourself at the Pinnacle or Holiday Block.
Climbing at Sand Rock goes back to 1972, when the prolific Rich Gottlieb and friends began snagging FAs on routes like the classic Comfortably Numb. In the 80s, climbers like Shannon Stegg, Curtis Glass, Gene Smith and others established numerous trad lines. Later, bolted routes became more acceptable, and poorly-protected sections of cliff began sprouting sport routes, including the Sun Wall favorite Misty. Johnny Arms has been a major source of new routes since the 90s.
In more recent years, conflicts have sometimes developed between new route setters and the older guard who saw some of the new routes as squeeze jobs or retrobolts of existing routes. Something of a truce appears to be in effect for the present.
Camping is abundant near the parking lot and along the road in to Sand Rock. After climbing, a trip to the Coyote Restaurant in nearby Leesburg is not to be missed.
Getting There
From Atlanta, take I-75 north toward Chattanooga and exit at Hwy. 411/20 (exit 290). Follow 411 toward Rome, bypassing that city; outside of Rome, turn right on Hwy. 53 (and 411). Continue through Cave Spring and Centre, AL to the town of Leesburg. Turn right on Hwy. 68 and follow this road almost three miles, watching for signs for the village of Sand Rock. Turn left on County Road 36 and continue about a mile and a half to CR 70 (you should see signs for Cherokee Rock Village). Turn left on 70 and continue up the mountain ridge to the Sand Rock parking lot.
A true Sandrock classic, Comfortably Numb is long, pumpy and exposed. It's a great challenge for bold leaders, but many like to set it up as a toprope. A 60-meter rope is a must.Starting in the center of the wall, climb a slabby face with thin pro to a ledge. Continue through an overhang/bulge and up the steep face to the top....[more]
I'm one of the climbers that turns his nose up at Sandrock. Unlike most spots in our great state, Sandrock is used and abused. This is unfortunate since it's the second closest crag to my house as I travel North. Griffin Falls and Jamestown offer nearby alternatives.
Sandrock is great if you like to clip bolts in a crowded, dirty, loud, poorly graded, crap fest...otherwise, it's a swell place. But what do I know.
Ben Lyon is definitly wrong in my book. Sandrocks is a fun easy approach area for climber of all skill levels. A climber can find easy to hard everything at Sandrocks. The bouldering is fun, sport climbing is fun, and the trad is great. Sandrocks is very unique, when you look at the geological features of the area. My favorite spot to climb in the area is hole in the wall. Every route is overhanging and in the 5.11 to 5.12 range.
I've lived and climbed in some of the most beautiful and quality areas this country has to offer. Sand Rock is NOT a world class destination climbing area. On the other hand it is so far from the crapfest you mentioned. The scenery is actually quite beautiful and the quality of the rock and routes is very good. There's just something about that place that keeps me coming back. If you don't like clipping bolts in a crowded, dirty, loud, crapfest, there's always Little River Canyon.
Pffft, there's LRC...I'll have to quit my job, climb 6 days a week, train 8 days a week, lower my beer intake by about 95%, monitor my diet, and harness my chi before I even think about stepping foot in LRC.
This place is a total shit fest all topped off by the local young clansmen spray painting and destroying anything good this place has to offer. While the climbing is not that bad, it is just really hard to get over the total disrespect for one of the only cool places bama has to offer. AS for LRC that place is totally amazing and I understand why it is kept such a secret. Coming from Colorado I can say that place is ten stars.
I'd say that Sand Rock is a fine place to climb. Just ignore the graffitti and the trash (which wasn't that bad anyway) and focus on the climbing. I found the climbs to be really worthwhile; with Misty and Dreamscape being some of the best of the grade I have ever done.
Don't let the above comments disuade you. In my opinion, Sand Rock is definitely worth a stop.
I'm ready to crack some rednecks skulls! The last comment Ben heard from a fight in the parking lot by the yokals " I hit him right upside the head I did#%!" If you want to climb a FEW good trad routes and laugh at the ignorance at the place then this is it! You must wear blue jean cut offs and a wife beater.
Recently I found a ton of climbs with very little traffic. bolted routes, cracks, and what seems to be some amazing bouldering all at sandrock. if u r that antisocial just go to a route that all the ignorant newbies like myself dont know about and or cant climb. there are plenty at sandrock
By bradkillough From: hartselle, Alabama Mar 31, 2008
Sand Rock is what you make it, it hasn't changed in years. The burning of the porta-john is childish and I thought S.R. was going to get a Ranger checking on the place? Maybe they need to step-up their rounds a bit.....!
Sand Rock
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