Great crack climb, that evolves into easy face climbing above the short crack.
Work into crack and throw a solid left handed jam in crack and use features in crack to work feet up to a smear...throw your right hand to a high crimp just outside of the crack on the right wall.
Try not to put a cam in your best jam spot.
According to Tindell, its "harder" if you stay in the crack, but I have never done it that way.
Location
Route is on Left/West face of the Island, about 10' from the arete and the corridor.
Protection
Crack takes cams nicely (med cams at base of crack, smaller higher in crack) and plenty of placements on face above. Can set up a TR on top rather easily (have to jump across to the Island)
I like staying only in the crack at the bottom and avoiding the jugs on the outside. If you do it this way it seems truer to grade. The bad thing is both of the jam spots are also good trad placements. I've only TR'ed it.
Palisades Park
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