Easy climbing leads to a nice intro to roofs. Work those feet up as you hand-over-hand it out the large horizontal flake under the roof. Pull that bad boy for more easy climbing to the top. When you go for the lip of the roof, throw a right heel hook and roll over the top and follow the crack to the top. ( You use a right heel hook, so when you roll over the top you will be inline for the finish. )
Location
Long broken crack to a roof in a highly impacted area. Maybe 200' right of the 'descent gully'. Just left of the awesome face climb "Night of the Climbing Dead".
Protection
Trad...take some small to medium cams, half a set of stoppers, and a handful of small tricams...there's good gear all over this route.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Jun 4, 2007 rating: 5.8
If you're planning to go to the Gunks, this is good prep for roof moves like the one on Shockley's Ceiling. I consider Cashmere slightly sandbagged at 5.7. I wasn't ready to lead it last time I was there, but I will lead it next time.
By Brad Killough IV Administrator From: hartselle, Alabama Oct 27, 2008
The lower half can be protected with passive pro. But, use cams right at and in the roof. Nice intro to 5.7 trad.
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