View from the old fire tower. You have to jump th...
Description
If you're looking for a pleasant spot to bring friends new to climbing, Alabama's Palisades Park is a great choice.
Located not far from Birmingham, Palisades is a state park with a nice little cliffline running just below its parking lot. There's a good range of climbing difficulty, ranging from easy 5.4 up to roofy 5.12. Because everything can be easily toproped, it's a perfect place for a beginner's first outdoor climbing experience. And if you're just getting started on trad, Palisades is an excellent training ground; routes like Buckets (5.5) offer easy leading and plentiful protection. Be aware, though, that the grades tend to be sandbagged; Elephant Crack (5.6) and Box Lunch (5.7) are not for the novice leader. There's no sport climbing at Palisades; no bolting is allowed.
All climbers must register at the park office and buy a $2 climbing permit (this is good for two weeks). From the parking lot, head for the cliff top near a picnic pavillion and scramble down a fourth-class gully/chimney to the base of the cliff.
The Dixie Cragger's Atlas is a good resource for routes at Palisades.
Getting There
From Birmingham, take SR 75 north to Oneonta. Take a left on US 231 (north); about a mile or two outside of Oneonta, watch for signs pointing to Palisades Park and follow county roads to the park entrance.
From Atlanta, take I-20 west to the US 231 exit. Follow 231 north through Oneonta, then follow directions above to the park.
Good route. Scamper up some easy ledges to a crack pinched in by small roof. Throw some pro in crack and power up crack..this is the crux. Once over, have about 15' of easy slab with a crack to place pro. Arrive at roof with little alcove to rest and place pro. Throw in some big pro and pull roof. Not to hard to set up TR but need some webbing....[more]
I consider this my home crag. It is 50 minutes from my house and offers the closest drive for single pitch trad or top roping the tough stuff.
Palisades is located in a nice county park with good facilities, short approach, and shady climbs.
By bradkillough From: hartselle, Alabama Mar 30, 2008
Pallisades Park is a well kept and beutifull park that is nice to take your family for a picnic and some nice liad back climbing. The only critter you need worry about is the ever present cane break rattler. They really like laying agianst the cliff line on a hot summer day and they're about three feet long and fat, and mean when provoked. We've been going there for years and have only saw a couple. Though, this is still a great, really pretty place and check out the chain saw carvings, really cool!!
It is perfect in October and November...temps are just right, shade in the morning, with the sun peaking over the cliffline just before lunch in most areas.
Palisades Park
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