Medusa Tree 

FA:  Rich Gottlieb, Chick Holtkamp - 1984 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 90 feet Views: 335 page views Submitted By: saxfiend on Jan 7, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Please respect surrounding private property. MORE INFO >>> Though the Jamestown crag is owned by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition, access to the cliff passes through privately-owned land. The landowners in the valley have been gracious enough to grant this right-of-way, so the SCC asks that all climbers be respectful of these property owners' privacy. Additionally, the land above the cliffline as well as the land past the end of the SCC property is owned by private landowners, many of whom are hostile to climbers. Do not top out on the cliff under any circumstances. Do not climb in areas that are plainly marked off limits, and do not go past the sign at the end of the SCC property (about where the route Cinnamon Girl is located). There is no camping allowed at Jamestown. The nearest camping is in DeSoto State Park near Fort Payne. For the most up-to-date information on Jamestown, check the SCC website. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Southeastern Climbers Coalition

Description 

A real Jamestown classic, Medusa Tree has great protection and thought-provoking moves in places. A must-do for the grade, and a good choice if you're a leader ready to move into 5.9 territory.

Starting on a somewhat slabby face, move up through cracks to a big horizontal flake. Work left on the flake and up to a bulge. At this point, you have a choice of using the easier (5.9) vertical crack on the left to pull the bulge, or the considerably more difficult thin seam on the right (5.11 variation). After negotiating this crux, move up and right to the anchors.

Location 

Starts about 50' right of a huge, blocky pillar, not far left of King of Bling. Rap from the anchors.

Protection 

Cams and passive pro in the small to medium range. Bolted anchors.