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Alabama


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Submitted By: saxfiend on Jan 5, 2007
Administrators: saxfiend, Brad Killough IV
Latitude: 33.7609  Longitude: -86.8799 
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Brad Killough on Oyster 5.10 a


Description 

It may not be the first place you think of as a climbing destination, but Alabama has some excellent crags to choose from, most within a two-hour drive of Atlanta or Birmingham.

Climbing in Alabama is mostly sandstone. The Cumberland Plateau, which hosts the great sandstone cliffs of Tennessee, extends into northern Alabama. Areas like Jamestown are similar to T-Wall and Sunset in Chattanooga, though the cliffs are not as tall. Other areas like Sand Rock, by contrast, tend toward sandstone with a fair amount of conglomerate mixed in.

For trad climbers, Jamestown is the top destination, with numerous excellent lines. Areas like Sand Rock and Griffin Falls have a mix of sport and trad, while Palisades Park is a great place for setting up easy to moderate topropes. Boulderers can enjoy the great problems of Horse Pens 40 and Moss Rock Preserve.

Because many of Alabama's destinations are on private land, access has been a perennial problem. While there are some areas that have been closed with little hope of ever reopening, Jamestown is a special success story. In 2005, the Southeastern Climbers Coalition purchased the land that includes the Jamestown cliffline, reopening the area to legal climbing for the first time in 12 years. With luck, other off-limits areas can be reopened with similar tactics.


Getting There 

See individual climbing areas for specific directions.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Alabama:
Bum Boy   V3     Boulder, 12 feet   Horse Pens 40
Earth Wind & Fire   V4     Boulder   Horse Pens 40
Mortal Combat   V4     Boulder   Horse Pens 40
Red Arrow   V4     Boulder   Horse Pens 40
Swirls   V4     Boulder   Horse Pens 40
Man With The Slow Hand   V4     Boulder   Horse Pens 40
Millipede   V5     Boulder   Horse Pens 40
Cashmere   5.7     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Palisades Park
Elephant Crack   5.7+     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Palisades Park
Yum Yum Tree   5.7+     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Jamestown : Harvest Wall
My Dog Has Fleas   5.8+     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Sand Rock : Holiday Block
Boobs   5.9     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Palisades Park
Jaws (aka Cleopatra's Clit)   5.9+     Trad, TR, 27 feet   Sand Rock : Jaws Block/West Side Rock
White Gold   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Sand Rock : Sun Wall
Knife Crack   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Griffin Falls
Comfortably Numb   5.9+     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Sand Rock : The Pinnacle
Oyster   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Sand Rock : Holiday Block
Gravy Train   5.10a     Trad, 75 feet   Sand Rock : Holiday Block
Misty   5.10c/d     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Sand Rock : Sun Wall
Dreamscape   5.11c/d     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Sand Rock : Sun Wall
Browse More Classics in Alabama


Featured Route For Alabama
This would be me trying to figure out the rather reachy, thin crux...awesome route...good for the beginning 5.10 leader...

Cinnamon Girl 5.10  AL : Jamestown : Winter Wall
The route starts in a crack behind the free standing pillar on the left end of the Winter Wall. Follow an arching/thinning crack, (that parallels The Arch - but slightly higher) to the same shared anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in AL


Photos of Alabama Slideshow Add Photo
Brad Killough, doing what he does at most comps. Judge & spot.

Brad Killough, doing what he does at most comps. J...

Denmark Blount maintains intense focus on his footwork as he leads Wild Iris.

Denmark Blount maintains intense focus on his foot...

Liz redpointing The Wasp, V3, Horse Pens 40.

Liz redpointing The Wasp, V3, Horse Pens 40.

Butter on Bread, V1, HP40

Butter on Bread, V1, HP40

High Life, V5, HP40

High Life, V5, HP40

Katrenis on Millipede,  HP40

Katrenis on Millipede, HP40

SWIRL, HP 40

SWIRL, HP 40

T.W. on DEAD RECKONING, 5.10a

T.W. on DEAD RECKONING, 5.10a

T.W. on DEAD RECKONING, 5.10a

T.W. on DEAD RECKONING, 5.10a

hope that gri gri checks out

hope that gri gri checks out

The crew at Sand Rock!

The crew at Sand Rock!

Nice trad, past Fiath.

Nice trad, past Fiath.

Gene Smith working on the FA of Chandler Roof

Gene Smith working on the FA of Chandler Roof