|Red Diamond Wall
My favorite route at Red Diamond wall, which is saying a lot since they're all real good. One thin crux at the start will get your immediate attention (do NOT fall while clipping!), then great moves up and through the next crux. Will keep your attention all the way to the chains.
Just left of Hat Trick on the far right side of the wall. The climbs on this side of Red Diamond are much easier to access by taking the trail around the backside of the formation and dropping in above these climbs; this trail starts about 100yds up the road from the San Pedro Vista lot, and is probably a much better way to get to the wall in general once you figure out where it starts.
Bolts, single rack to #1. Chains.
From: Tucson, AZ
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
This is a terrific climb. Three or four stars, I can't decide which. The climb is a bit hard to read for an onsight attempt. I felt that there was just enough good gear, which made it really fun. I agree with Andy that singles to 1" is plenty, make sure you have a good assortment of stoppers.
For me, the location of the third bolt was great for clipping but felt too far to the left for the way I did the moves. I was a bit concerned that I'd fall into the rope and flip over if I blew the challenging sequence. (It's possible the FAs climbed further left.) Other than this it was fabulous and highly recommended.