World-class climbing up a proud wall in pristine Patagonian wilderness. Of the 12 pitches, an astonishing 10 of them would be classic single pitch routes in their own right. Definitely in the running for the "Astroman of South America".
Pitch by pitch rundown - more beta available from the refugio
P1: Things start off mildly enough with some easy, lower angle handcrack. A brief wide section provides the crux. 35 m, 5.10a
P2: Hopefully you're warmed up. Pull through an insecure roof and gain a right leaning, pumpy, tricky finger crack. Follow it to the mouth of the gaping bombay chimney slot. 35 m, 5.10d
P3: The Seeliger slot? Undercling to the base of the flaring, bombay chimney and conjure up a way to get into it. The chimney quickly shrinks through the offwidth sizes to fists and wide hands. Follow this beauty all the way to the ledge. 45 m, 5.11b
P4: Leave your wide cams here, because you're done with them. Layback and jam your way up the burly corner to the top, then clip a bolt or two as you move up the giant block to a ledge. 30 m, 5.10d.
P5: The technical crux - incredibly insecure arete liebacking and slick corner stemming sans crack. Bolt-protected. After the most severe difficulties, an exposed face still waits offering reachy, blind moves between flake huecos protected by thin gear. 35 m, 5.11c.
P6: Scramble towards the base of the upper headwall with an occasional 5.7 move. 40 m, 5.7
P7: Head up the short corner/finger crack and traverse left. A few bolts help to protect the steep, wild face moves. At the top, a classic Cochamó butt crack disappears into a shallow seam - one more bolt keeps it PG. 35 m, 5.10d.
P8: The RP corner. Start with a relatively mild finger crack, eventually gaining the dihedral. Stem your way up, protected by micro nuts. 45 m, 5.10d/5.11a.
P9: The Duck Beak. Start by traversing right. Face climb up sharp crimps before gaining a friction slab. Traverse back left and start up the arete. Chimney your way behind the obvious duck beak to the top. 40 m, 5.10d/5.11a
P10: Climb up ledges and ramps with a one or two 5.9 moves, aiming for the base of the large dihedral. 40 m, 5.9. OR Traverse right and climb the handcrack/overhanging dihedral. Hadn't been cleaned as of 2012. 5.10+? (Hopefully someone who has done it since can chime in.)
P11: Up the dihedral with a surprisingly tricky double crack system. One crack vanishes half way up and things get real insecure. 45 m, 5.10c.
P12: Head up the dihedral until the hand crack ends. A difficult deadpoint/dyno to a an obvious flake on the right provides the final crux of the route. Traverse right and down, then follow an easy dihedral to the top. 25 m, 5.11a
15-20 minutes of scrambling takes you to the peak
7 double rope raps gets you back where started
Anfiteatro, on "Cerro Calbuco" (left side of Anfi when looking up). More detailed beta from the refugio, or PM me.
Bring everything you got - RP's to #5 camalot.
Doubles of fingers to narrow hands, maybe more if, like me, you find climbs like this to be way hard. You will have to build a few anchors so a cordelette might be nice.
|By Kevin DB|
Aug 2, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
Definitely an Awesome, Awesome Route. Sustained 5.10 climbing broken up by distinct 5.11 cruxes. Not to miss for anybody in the Cochamo valley. I don't believe the crux of the route can be pulled through, but it's protected by a bolt, so go for it.