Aksal's Beard Waterfall  WI5

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Type:  Trad, Ice Consensus:  WI5 [details] FA:  Season:  Winter Submitted By:  Amadeus on Feb 8, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Aksal's Beard

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Description 

Aksal's Beard is a great piece of waterfall ice. To get to the main waterfall you will have to do a couple of small pitches beforehand. Neither of these first two little pitches are too complicated, but ropes should be used anyways just to eliminate dangers. The main waterfall is 3 pitches. The first one is about 25 meters and at about a 70 degree angle. The second and third pitches are pure beautiful vertical ice. The second pitch is 30 meters of sustained vertical ice. You will have to set up a hanging belay station here. The third pitch is 10 meters of vertical ice.

After the first pitch there is also a short (20 meter) one pitch waterfall on the left. Its a spot where melt water is seeping through the rock. It looks like a nice little climb for people who may be too tired to attempt the larger portion of the waterfall.

Don't pass this waterfall up. Its a pleasure to climb!

Location 

Park near the statue of Yuri Gagarin. The waterfall is on the right side of the road. If you stand looking at the statue you will see a small valley coming down from the mountains to the left of the statue. You can follow this one up. The river coming from this small valley is completely frozen during winter, so you can just get to the river, put on your crampons and walk / climb all the way to the waterfall. The approach time is about a 30-40 minute hike from the statue area.

Protection 

Bring screws, more screws, abalokov threading equipment, and an appetite for multi pitch ice.

Photos of Aksal's Beard Waterfall Slideshow

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Aksal's Beard Lead Ice on Pitch 2