|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 130'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Bruce Holthouse, late 1970s|
|Submitted By:||George Perkins on May 2, 2008|
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|Comments on Airy Scary||Add Comment|
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By Mike Howard
May 27, 2008
FA: Bruce Holthouse, ?
I bet Bruce thinks you're mad climbing above that old mank. Those 1/4"ers and pins were as good as they were ever going to be on that day he placed 'em around thirty years ago. You hang big sack long time.
"Airy Scary"...not his name for it he reminded me, he never named those routes. But he laughed hard and full when I read it to him..."that's good", he chortled. I could see the clarity of the first ascent in that pin sized pupil through his squinted eyes. I knew he meant that crux move was all that when he sent it more than thirty years ago. That is what this is all about. The unknown of a ground up first ascent and that sliver of success now, forever vanquished in the grade we read in advance in a guide. The moot-point. 11-, PG13. Risky, but do-able. No one knew then. The man's still got moxie at 60.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 27, 2008
Thanks, Mike, I really appreciate you sharing this story. It's fun to hear when someone like Bruce is happy when a fitting new name gets put on one of his climbs. This was among the best climbs I've done at TP, had me glowing for the next week. It's too scary to be truly classic. Too bad I can't touch Bruce's harder routes.
[I feel a little guilty for reducing the next person's adventure.. but I figure people who want that don't visit websites designed to share beta.]
Fixed gear description:
1st- 1/4" bolt. Looks in good shape about 20' up. Protects 5.10- climbing, no harder than Better Red Than Dead. If you're falling here, it's best if you stop now instead of going higher.
2nd- angle piton in horizontal just below technical crux (11-). This appears bomber as of May '08, and I tested it when I fell on it when my foothold broke (removing the last piece of loose rock on this climb). If you fall on this crux, it's not a big deal. It's about 8' farther to the next big bolt.
3rd- big bolt. Just after technical crux. This is not a 1970s original. To whoever replaced the original with this one, THANKS! This one will keep you from hitting anything if you fall anywhere above this.
4th- crappy upward-driven knifeblade piton. "Protects" the psychological crux. You need to make 5.10+ slab moves about 10 or 15' above this, and I wasn't confident that it will hold a fall (but I couldn't pull it out by hand). I don't think there are any other options for gear on this section. You're looking at about 20 to 30' fall (if it holds), and 10-15' more if it doesn't, but the bolt below it is big. I looked at this slab for a long time before going for it.
Both my partner and I fell once at the 5.11- crux, but got the slab at the top without coming off. We usually fall on TP 5.11a.