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This challenging arete is excellent. Approach as for Early Arete
, but continue the 3rd class traverse left. Begin up the dihedral until its possible to traverse onto the hanging wall. The crux begins at the end of the traverse, with difficult balancey moves getting established on the arete. Once on the arete more strenuous techery leads up to a dicey clip and finally a straight down jug. Rest up and cruise much easier, though never trivial, moves to the horizontal break, where one more challenging move gains the anchor. I thought it was harder than Early arete, but not ultra-sustained.
Left end of Early Wall, the prominent hanging arete with bolts on the right side. 2nd bolted route from the left.
7 bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor. Bolt hangers are gold.
By Aaron Miller
Apr 3, 2009
one of the more crimpier routes at Diablo, but excellent position and fun climbing.