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BETA PHOTO: Airtime is the smaller, upper/mid crack. There's ...
Really surprised that this one hasn't been added, as it is easily the best route on the Utah Wall. Jeff Lowe originally led this for the FA when he was only 14 and rated it 5.8!
This route is located on the North Ridge of Utah Wall. Approach by walking, following the spacious ledge, up and right (north) at the base of "Shotgun" and "Lawyers, Guns, and Money." Belay at a stance just before the arete. Lead up the arete through broken up ground towards the striking rightward leaning crack up high. A couple small nut or tcu-sized pieces can be put in for protection about 20 feet up by an old pin. About 15 feet higher, the rock gets steeper with a good crack for pro and another old pin. There is a fixed nut befo the business. You won't have a piece above you for this move, unless you want to use up your handhold, so you're going to have to commit.
Once in the alcove, place a couple of hand-sized pieces in the corner and enjoy the few moves to climb out of the dihedral. Here, there are two options: continue up and left(various sizes under 2") or follow up the crack on the right side of the ridge (book calls this the "Hadley Variation"). I haven't done the Hadley variation, so I can't really comment on it, but it looks like you'll want some big hands pieces (3-4"). Both variations end near the "window" atop the second pitch of shotgun. There is a slung horn to rap off of.
Descent: Make one rap with two ropes to the ground, from this window, or two raps with one rope down Shotgun.
Gear: 1 and a 1/2 sets .5" to 2" (or 4" if doing the Hadley variation?). Long draws and Runners are particularly useful on this climb!
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Sep 7, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
An amusing climb. Enough fixed gear on it to almost make it a "sport" climb. Fun and airy with a crux that will have you thinking, but probably not going on the repeat list.
By Colby Wayment
From: Ogden, UT
4 days ago
Having since done this with the Hadley variation, I recommend it. Bringing a fist sized cam or two helps.