Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Aaron Miller and Josh Smith |
Page Views: | 2,600 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | A Miller on Oct 26, 2006 |
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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Airbus (see route 18 on photo)
An obvious long offwidth pitch can be seen from across the canyon as a corner thats adjacent to the right most rock buttress with lots of lichen (lichening the serpent is on this). The first pitch is either a dirty 5.8 stem corner that leads to a stellar cove below a clean squeeze bombay chimney or an easy traverse from a very popular 5.8 sport route (Drunk Rednecks). Great belays with chain anchors. Fight your way up a hard 5.11 squeeze that gets you on top of a large chockstone with mostly 5.10 wide climbing above. Bring all your largest gear and 1 each of various hand sizes.
If you get rejected from the squeeze chimney crux, there is a really nice 5.9 splitter hand crack that leads up and left from the belay and after about 20 feet, you can hand traverse back into the wide corner for some stellar 5.10 wide corner climbing.
If you get rejected from the squeeze chimney crux, there is a really nice 5.9 splitter hand crack that leads up and left from the belay and after about 20 feet, you can hand traverse back into the wide corner for some stellar 5.10 wide corner climbing.
Location
Start up Drunk Rednecks... (5.8 access pitch of Lichening the Serpent) and traverse left at the anchors for 20 feet with gear toward comfy cove with bolted anchor. Or, start in dirty corner just left of the 5.8 bolted route. Belayer can stand to side to avoid rockfall.
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