Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Aaron Miller and Josh Smith
Page Views: 2,600 total · 12/month
Shared By: A Miller on Oct 26, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands DetailsDrop down

Airbus (see route 18 on photo) Suggest change

An obvious long offwidth pitch can be seen from across the canyon as a corner thats adjacent to the right most rock buttress with lots of lichen (lichening the serpent is on this). The first pitch is either a dirty 5.8 stem corner that leads to a stellar cove below a clean squeeze bombay chimney or an easy traverse from a very popular 5.8 sport route (Drunk Rednecks). Great belays with chain anchors. Fight your way up a hard 5.11 squeeze that gets you on top of a large chockstone with mostly 5.10 wide climbing above. Bring all your largest gear and 1 each of various hand sizes.

If you get rejected from the squeeze chimney crux, there is a really nice 5.9 splitter hand crack that leads up and left from the belay and after about 20 feet, you can hand traverse back into the wide corner for some stellar 5.10 wide corner climbing.

Location Suggest change

Start up Drunk Rednecks... (5.8 access pitch of Lichening the Serpent) and traverse left at the anchors for 20 feet with gear toward comfy cove with bolted anchor. Or, start in dirty corner just left of the 5.8 bolted route. Belayer can stand to side to avoid rockfall.

Protection Suggest change

 Single rack to #2, then doubles to #6. I brought a single 4 and 5 and it was fine, but I got bitched out by Dave Moeser for not giving him enough big gear on his attempt.  One 60m rope for two raps to the ground.

Photos

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