Start in a chimney, clip a bolt, then make a commiting move out of the chimney on to the face, falling here is not reccomended as you will go swinging back into the chimney. Steep flakes, jugs, and some barn-door arete climbing with bad feet eventually lets up near the very top. Very sustained with multiple cruxes.
As of now, there is only 1 bolt at the anchor.... It's bomber, but it could definitely use another bolt and some chains.
This is on the left side of Sunshine just right of Buckshot on the arete.
1 of each from #1 Camalot to small wires. Couple extra finger size to smaller pieces. 4 bolts total.
Start in the chimney, then move out on to the face...
From: Golden, CO
Feb 19, 2011
I thought this was a challenging, thought-provoking climb that was very sustained. I'd give this route 3 stars if it wasn't for some friable rock throughout the route.
|By Patrick Peddy|
Feb 20, 2011
The best way to descend is to simul-rap off both sides of the tower. 1 60m should be long enough. Make sure you run the rope through the ring, so the rope doesn't roll. Glad you had fun on it, Monty; maybe I'll see you up there before the closure.
Thanks out to Kevin Stricker and Dave Russell for replacing the old bolts.
From: Wherever we park!
Feb 20, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c PG13
Pretty pumpy. The move out of the chimney was stellar.
Good idea, Patrick.
|By Mark Roth|
Feb 27, 2011
Hey Monty, this is listed in my '88 Hubbel book....
FA: Steve "Norman" Dieckoff, Noel Childs, Strappo Hughes, and Jerry Rock, 6/88.