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Sunshine Wall
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Airborne Froth 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Steve "Norman" Dieckoff, Noel Childs, Strappo Hughes, and Jerry Rock, 6/88
Page Views: 337
Submitted By: Monty on Feb 19, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Pat Peddy leading Airborne Froth 5.11a with the bi...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start in a chimney, clip a bolt, then make a commiting move out of the chimney on to the face, falling here is not reccomended as you will go swinging back into the chimney. Steep flakes, jugs, and some barn-door arete climbing with bad feet eventually lets up near the very top. Very sustained with multiple cruxes.

As of now, there is only 1 bolt at the anchor.... It's bomber, but it could definitely use another bolt and some chains.

Location 

This is on the left side of Sunshine just right of Buckshot on the arete.

Protection 

1 of each from #1 Camalot to small wires. Couple extra finger size to smaller pieces. 4 bolts total.


Photos of Airborne Froth Slideshow Add Photo
Start in the chimney, then move out on to the face, and follow the flakes staying right where the flake ends.
Start in the chimney, then move out on to the face...

Comments on Airborne Froth Add Comment
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By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Feb 19, 2011

I thought this was a challenging, thought-provoking climb that was very sustained. I'd give this route 3 stars if it wasn't for some friable rock throughout the route.
By Patrick Peddy
From: evergreen,co
Feb 20, 2011

The best way to descend is to simul-rap off both sides of the tower. 1 60m should be long enough. Make sure you run the rope through the ring, so the rope doesn't roll. Glad you had fun on it, Monty; maybe I'll see you up there before the closure.

Thanks out to Kevin Stricker and Dave Russell for replacing the old bolts.
By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Feb 20, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

Pretty pumpy. The move out of the chimney was stellar.
Good idea, Patrick.
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Feb 27, 2011

Hey Monty, this is listed in my '88 Hubbel book....

FA: Steve "Norman" Dieckoff, Noel Childs, Strappo Hughes, and Jerry Rock, 6/88.