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Airation 

5.11a

   
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
FA: Henry Barber, J. Brag, Bob Anderson, Aug. 23, 1973
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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Description 

Airation is a perfect straightforward finger crack. The crux is dealing with the pain of the sharp fingerlocks. This is a great example of 5.11a fingers. Footwork is key as there are many small feet on the face.

Pitch 1: 5.11a follow the picture-perfect, finger crack to a tree with a fixed sling and rings. Most people only do the first pitch.

Pitch 2: Follow the lower angled rock to the top.


Location 

Start on a tree-covered ledge just left of the original finish for Thin Air (5.6), which is a leaf filled gully. (Be careful stepping over the gap to the base of the climb...If you slip it's a looooong way down.) From the ledge, find the nicest finger crack. Have fun...


Protection 

Cams from thin fingers to wide fingers and some nuts.



Photos of Airation Slideshow Add Photo
Airation climbs the thin crack on the left. P1 ends at the visible tree in the top of the image. Heather climbs the far black streak and traverses up into the center white streak.

BETA PHOTO: Airation climbs the thin crack on the left. P1 end...

Almost there. She's going to be kicking all our butts once she starts building gear anchors.

Almost there. She's going to be kicking all our bu...

Resting before the crux.

Resting before the crux.

"tom cruising" airation

"tom cruising" airation


Comments on Airation Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 10, 2013
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 18, 2007

Seriously sharp, protect the bottom with blue and green Aliens.

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Mar 6, 2009

ooOOOooo! i wanna get oh this this summer! when will it dry out?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 7, 2009

never can tell Micheal... but its not that bad there are just a few spots that take a while to dry out after rain or in the spring melt...

By CTYankee
May 5, 2009

It is almost a "give-away" for little fingers.

By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Jun 16, 2009

I want to get this one clean this season...it is a beautiful, albeit painful route!

By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 30, 2009

Henry, Bob Anderson and John Bragg- 3 days for the ffa !

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 30, 2009

Three days? Really?

By john strand
From: southern colo
Nov 4, 2009

That's what I was told , Jay. Remember it was way dirty AND Henry was prolly removing the gear after every attempt. Gearing this climb, like Heather is much easier with Rocks and small cams too.

By Jeremiah Johnson
From: Hershey PA
Jan 18, 2010

Great climb; I just wish it was longer.

By USBRIT
Jun 6, 2010

The FA did take 3 days and was Yo Yoed.

By Matt Desenberg
From: Wells, Me
Nov 16, 2010

Super fun. The feet are better than you might think, too.

By James Simone
Mar 10, 2013

such a phenomenal line. it's a shame it's so short. good footwork will get you through the crux with forearm pump to spare.