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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: John Burcham, 1990
Page Views: 591
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 2, 2008

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From the hanging belay, traverse right about 15 ft to the edge of the arete. Pull up using a short vertical crack to gain a stance (crux). Continue up the arete, climbing mostly the face to the left of the arete. This route protects very well. Just before the top, you must make some thin slabby moves to reach the ledge above really solid gear.


This route is right most route located on the white arete/face above the giant roof to the left of Supercrack and the Gun Club. You must rappel in from the top and set up a hanging belay from a 2 bolt anchor at the edge of the lip of the large roof. There are shuts at the top of the route, about 15-20 ft below the cliff top. These shuts can be accessed by walking to the right(facing the river) and doing a very easy scramble to a large 5 ft wide ledge. I'm almost certain you need a 70M rope to touch down to ground, but a 60M rope easily gets you to the hanging belay. You can get back to the ground using the anchors above Supercrack.


Lots of gear in the .5 to 1" range, stoppers, tri-cams, and nothing larger than #1 Camalot.

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By Ben Doyle
Nov 20, 2009

Favorite face climb at the New. Small cams (00-1 size tcus/aliens) and tri-cams were useful.
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