|Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Instead of clipping the anchors on Swedin-Ringle, nest some (good) gear and climb the arete until you can rejoin the crack higher up. The arete is tenuous and any fall, especially at the crux, has the potential to be a big one! Finish in the steep, slightly crumbly right-arching fingers to thin hands crack. Exciting and spectacular!
Some will recognize this route from the Parallelojams video; most others will note that it is the oft-chalked extension to the prominent Swedin-Ringle. Lower with a 60m rope. The fixed "hardware" was pieces of static rope and carabiners in April of 2008 that was probably old.
No bolts unless you clip the Swedin-Ringle anchor (apparently this is a taboo if leading the entire route; pretend the anchor doesn't exist and forget I mentioned it). Gear from tiny (.33 or black Aliens) to 1 inch. Doubles or triples of finger to hand pieces are useful. Note that it is possible but difficult to place protection during the crux, with the possibility of a large but mostly clean fall. Hence the 'R' rating. See my comments below.
Dec 20, 2008
It's possible to place gear during the arete sequence but would be difficult to do during an onsight attempt. The cam is very small and it is difficult to see the placement, so it remains exciting. I did fall on this cam (a blindly placed 00 TCU) once and it was solid. This route adds some great climbing and a more logical finish to the otherwise unremarkable Swedin-Ringle crack.
|By Greg Barnes|
Apr 19, 2012
The FA was by Pat Savageau (his last name is often misspelled).
|By Ann Savageau|
Apr 19, 2012
If anyone out there knew my son Pat Savageau, who did FA of Air Swedin, or if you have photos of him climbing, my family and I would deeply appreciate you contacting us with any memories. It's been almost 12 years since he died and we still miss him every day. If you would like to view a memorial I create for him, go to my website, annsavageau.com, and click on Memorial on the home page. Ann Savageau
Dec 29, 2012
Apologies for misspelling his name when I added this.