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Air Monsters 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ray Ringle, John Steiger
Page Views: 2,508
Submitted By: Luke Bertelsen on Jun 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Air Monsters!

Description 

A truly classic line. This climb is the anti-Mt. Lemmon climb. No crimps, just big holds on a nice big overhanging face. Unfortunately this climb must not get much action as I climbed it last weekend and there were cobwebs on the holds.


Location 

This is the first route located on the overhang of Nancy's thumb. Hard to miss.


Protection 

5 bolts to chains. The first is a ways up although there is some gear if you like. The last bolt before the chains is under the lip. If you come off up top you will get a nice little ride.



Photos of Air Monsters Slideshow Add Photo
Mark about to do the crux move on Air Monsters.
Mark about to do the crux move on Air Monsters.
Crux?
Crux?
Comments on Air Monsters Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 22, 2014
By Jimbo
Aug 15, 2007

If you mean the sport route just around the corner, right of Air Monsters, it's 5.11+. I can't remember what we called it. Eric, Dean and I drilled it several years ago. 2 cruxs, one down low has a trick, the one up high is just plane pumpy.
Fun route you should get on it.

By adamp
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jun 2, 2008

Kind of a Mt. Lemmon oddity- steep to overhanging crimp/jug haul. The mantel will get your heart pumping.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 3, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

A little spicy getting to the first bolt by todays standards.

By Braxtron
From: ...
Jun 27, 2008
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Would be a classic if the first 1/3 weren't 5.8. Still, it's very fun, and appropriately named due to the possibility of a clean 25' whipper...

By JesseJ
From: Tucson, AZ
May 3, 2010

The fellows climbing this the other day described the top bolt as "a partially pulled rusty button head". I haven't personally seen it, but it might bear consideration if anybody is in the area replacing bolts.

By ConorD
From: Monf***ingtana
Jul 5, 2010

Really enjoyed this route, really fun moves and lots of great air. I thought that the upper crux was a little sandbagged at 12- though. Feels more like 12b/c to me. Definitely a lemmon classic!

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 5, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Welcome to Mt. Lemmon. There is a trick for doing the crux that helps a lot. PM me if you want to know if you missed it.

By Alex Kirkpatrick
Feb 24, 2014

Replaced all bolts with stainless 2/23/2014. The old anchor remains but looked bomber for years to come. Enjoy!

By Alex Kirkpatrick
Feb 24, 2014

Many on the bolts on this route, including the crux bolt, were taper bolts. Here is a statement by the ASCA about these bolts in a test they did:

"We really gave Taper Bolts a chance, setting dozens of them in their optimum substrate, hard rock. We tried to set the bolts by "feel," just as you would when climbing. Half the time we got it right and the 3/8inch Taper Bolts held up to 3000 pounds in a straight pull out. But we blew it with the other half and the bolts slid out of the hole at only 700 pounds. Worse yet, we couldn't tell the good placements from the bad until we ripped them all out."

www.safeclimbing.org/education/dangerbolts.htm

Many old hex head bolts on Lemmon are taper bolts so be aware and don't trust your life to old hardware. Since these bolts become drastically weaker when loosened or improperly installed, It seems like mostly luck that the crux bolt on this route didnt blow during a fall. I clipped the old bolt myself and know several others who did as well. Scary.

By Jimbo
Feb 26, 2014

I fell on that bolt, many years ago, more times than I am willing to admit in public!!

Good on ya for replacing these old dogs!

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 30, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The second to last hanger fell off while I was at the anchors. I was able to locate the nut, but not washer, and hand tighten it. I'll start carrying my wrench in my pack and put together a small maintenance kit. Apologies for the amateur repair job on this one.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Mar 30, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

www.walmart.com/ip/Permatex-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker-Blu>>>

By jbak
Mar 30, 2014

Christian... why not use the red ?

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Mar 30, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I don't know, heard or read somewhere it was hard to get off with hand tools? Is that what you use?

By jbak
Mar 31, 2014

I think the red works fine (possibly more expensive tho), AND it tastes better !

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Mar 31, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I don't know, coming home w blue lipstick instead of red might buy me a few seconds before the rolling pins and frying pans start flying :-)

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 22, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The hanger in question has been tightened courtesy of Andy Bennett. The route is once again in prime condition.