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Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
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Air Male 
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Air Male 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dennis Luther, Kevin Boyle August 17, 2000
Page Views: 301
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Jul 3, 2010
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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Air Male is the quintessential Poke-O Face climb. Razor-sharp credit card edges, lock-offs and smeary feet punctuate this otherwise blank and imposing face.

    Start 8 feet to the left of the "Son of a Mother" chimney start on a grooved face. Climb practically directly up from here encountering some of the most painful crimps and unlikely foot edges you've ever seen.

    The route eases for a short moment before encountering the upper overhanging slab protected by 2 bolts and on up to the shared anchor with "Son of a Mother".


    Location 

    8 feet left of Son of a Mother is the line of bolts.


    Protection 

    8 bolts, plus some supplemental wires to fill in the gaps between the bolts.



    Comments on Air Male Add Comment
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    By Jim Lawyer
    Administrator
    Jul 18, 2010

    This route has been extended beyond what is described in the guidebook, Adirondack Rock. The above description is correct for the full [extended] pitch.

    By Derek Doucet
    Aug 3, 2010
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

    The route to the original anchor is mid 5.11, hence my rating of .11b. I haven't done the extension yet, and it may well be more difficult.