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Air Guitar 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: M. Dufford and D. Leonardi 85'
Page Views: 3,960
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
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BETA PHOTO: natalie at the top of Air Guitar 10a

Description 

One of the Coulee's best hand cracks.

Jam thin hands to hands to fists with a spot o' offwidth below the anchor.

Bolted anchor

this was the scene of a tragic fatal accident a few years ago

Location 

Between Pony Keg and Crossing the Threshold

Protection 

tcu's and cams to 4"


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By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Mar 16, 2009

The victim of the accident was Goran Kropp in 2002. You want to have at least one 3 inch and one 4 inch cam for this route.
By Ryan Huetter
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Mar 23, 2009

No need for #4 camalot. With 2 #3 camalots you can leave one low and bump the other up with you for the short wide bit at the top. Really stellar climbing!
By Scott Coldiron
From: Spokane, WA
May 22, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Much respect to Goran, he was an amazing athlete. With that said, don't be freaked out by the past accident. This is a fun, safe lead. Ditto the last post. I don't think the #4 is needed, and didn't need to bump up the second #3.
By mcarizona
From: Flag
Nov 17, 2009

Kropp was indeed the man for getting it done. I still have the article somewhere and there is a picture of a broken biner. Some shockload or crossload went down that day.
Steve
By Brandontru
From: Nevada
Mar 4, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The first time I went to the coulee someone had taken a fall on this climb. Spooky stuff.


None the less it is one of the coolest cracks in area.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 30, 2012

Fun. It is definitely well protected, though I was happy to have a #4 camalot up top. An old #3.5 camalot actually would have worked better...