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 ADVANCED
Lower Peanuts
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Guitar T,S 
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 
Black Pearl S 
Blows Against the Empire T 
Chaucer T 
Cornered, straight up variation T 
Criller AKA Dwayne and Craig's Exellent Adventures T,TR 
Dihedral T 
Do or Do Not T 
Double Cracks T 
Easy Off T 
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 
Faith, Hope and Charity T 
Fickle Finger of Eight T 
Forbidden Planet S 
Good Mourning T,TR 
Home Free T 
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 
Let's Jet S 
Narrow Gate, The T 
No Visible Means of Support T 
Nova T,TR 
Off The Cuff T 
Peanuts T 
Pretender, The T 
Right Escape T 
Sacred and the Profane, The S 
Scorpions T 
Shield, The T 
Sickle T 
Star Track T,TR 
Strata Outta Compton T 
Strolling T 
Tracer T 
Trouble And Strife T,TR 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 
Whiskey Gala T 
Wired T 
X-Wing T,TR 
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 
Your Basic Lieback T 

Air Guitar 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Steve Dieckhoff, Kathy Lenz
Fixed Hardware: 3 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 657
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Jul 27, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Although it is very short, this pitch is action-packed and excellent. Air Guitar climbs a clean face above Peanuts, Blows Against the Empire or Scorpion. Belay at the bolt anchor above Scorpion and the new 5.13 that joins Scorpion. (Using the bolts below for an upward anchor, you can sit on the relatively comfortable ramp and avoid the hanging belay.) The first bolt is just above the ramp, off to the left. Climb up a shallow arete with ever-increasing difficulty. The last move is a real "you gotta believe" treat! Belay off a tree and wires right above the pitch. Or, either 1) place a directional and move off left to belay before the downclimb descent or 2) place a directional and move up right to belay at a two-pin anchor for a rappel descent or to carry on to the base of Forbidden Planet.

Protection 

3 QDs plus small to medium wires for horizontal between bolts 1 and 2.


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By Steve Annecone
From: boulder
Aug 27, 2003

Just did this today, very nice route! The distances between bolts are a little sporty, but a fall would be generally safe. In addition to some small nuts (not ideal), there's a pretty good small yellow Camalot placement between the first and second bolts.