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The route is a bit grainy, not terribly so but definitely does make it a bit spicy. It is a long route, however the start is very low angle so technically you aren't climbing for 165 feet. This isn't a destination climb so don't hike out here to do just this route, the roofs on the South face look a lot more appealing but much harder. And Bighorn Dome, Cornerstone & Poodlesmasher are not far from here either. If you are looking for a quiet day with zero crowds this may be your ticket. Check out Page 331 of the Randy Vogel J-Tree guide printed by Falcon.
Follow the obvious line up the West face. There is a walk off on the back but it is 4th class, maybe even 5th class with a spicy blind step down and a sharp chimney squeeze. An option to consider if you want to throw a rope down and TR instead.
There is one bolt, but it is rusted and is not reliable at all. You can get pro in the crack (it is consistently #1 Camalot sized all the way up) the crack is a bit shallow though so it definitely won't eat gear.
BETA PHOTO: The one bolt on the climb....
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from just above the crux
Oct 20, 2010
As a matter of fact the Cornerstone and Poodle Smasher are still quite far away from this formation. And, as the old joke goes, if I was going there "I wouldn't start from here".