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Air Crack T 

Air Crack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 165'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Craig Fry & Kelly Gaynes, April 1988
Page Views: 121
Submitted By: Isaac T. on Oct 19, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Air Crack 5.6, cool route on less than inspiring r...

Description 

The route is a bit grainy, not terribly so but definitely does make it a bit spicy. It is a long route, however the start is very low angle so technically you aren't climbing for 165 feet. This isn't a destination climb so don't hike out here to do just this route, the roofs on the South face look a lot more appealing but much harder. And Bighorn Dome, Cornerstone & Poodlesmasher are not far from here either. If you are looking for a quiet day with zero crowds this may be your ticket. Check out Page 331 of the Randy Vogel J-Tree guide printed by Falcon.


Location 

Follow the obvious line up the West face. There is a walk off on the back but it is 4th class, maybe even 5th class with a spicy blind step down and a sharp chimney squeeze. An option to consider if you want to throw a rope down and TR instead.


Protection 

There is one bolt, but it is rusted and is not reliable at all. You can get pro in the crack (it is consistently #1 Camalot sized all the way up) the crack is a bit shallow though so it definitely won't eat gear.



Photos of Air Crack Slideshow Add Photo
The one bolt on the climb....
BETA PHOTO: The one bolt on the climb....
Looking down from just above the crux
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from just above the crux
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By Murf
Oct 20, 2010

As a matter of fact the Cornerstone and Poodle Smasher are still quite far away from this formation. And, as the old joke goes, if I was going there "I wouldn't start from here".