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Ain't no Sunshine When it's Gone 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: JSt, JnSt
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 466
Submitted By: Jimbo on Jan 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Ain't No Sunshine When it's Gone (March 2014)

Description 

Intriguing face climbing on small but good edges, with a balancy crux and a big pull over the final bulge.

Location 

On the formation 20 feet left of Solar Flare. Just left of Solar sys-stem

Protection 

Bolts, Chains


Comments on Ain't no Sunshine When it's Gone Add Comment
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By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
Feb 4, 2007

There's a song that keeps repeating in my head when I read the name of this route.
By dcohn
Feb 18, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The belay location is a little treacherous, the first bolt is a little low, and the rock is a little rough. That said I still give it two stars because a few of the moves are really great. Most of the holds are crimps. One of the cruxes was reachy and the other balancey. In my opinion this route is about as hard as a 10 can get without being an 11.
By Jimbo
Feb 19, 2007

dcohn,
I thought about putting the first bolt higher, but if you slipped before getting the clip you and your belayer would tumble down the gully.
Someone else also thought 10d would be a fair rating on this one.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Feb 16, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Sharp.