Ain't no Sunshine When it's Gone 5.10+
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | JSt, JnSt |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Fall, Winter, Spring |
| Submitted By: | Jimbo on Jan 11, 2007 |
| |
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Description Intriguing face climbing on small but good edges, with a balancy crux and a big pull over the final bulge.
Location On the formation 20 feet left of Solar Flare. Just left of Solar sys-stem
Protection Bolts, Chains
| Comments on Ain't no Sunshine When it's Gone |
|
By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
Feb 4, 2007
| There's a song that keeps repeating in my head when I read the name of this route. |
By dcohn
Feb 18, 2007
rating: 5.10d
| The belay location is a little treacherous, the first bolt is a little low, and the rock is a little rough. That said I still give it two stars because a few of the moves are really great. Most of the holds are crimps. One of the cruxes was reachy and the other balancey. In my opinion this route is about as hard as a 10 can get without being an 11. |
By Jimbo
Feb 19, 2007
| dcohn,
I thought about putting the first bolt higher, but if you slipped before getting the clip you and your belayer would tumble down the gully.
Someone else also thought 10d would be a fair rating on this one. |
By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Feb 16, 2013
rating: 5.11a
| Sharp. |
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