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Aid Soloing Prodigal Sun Beta
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By Ryan Chelstowski
From Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 6, 2013
inner chi
Hello,
I am looking into to aid soloing prodigal sun and was wondering if I could get ahold of anyone who has soloed it to get some beta. Any info would be appreciated.
Cheers

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By Kirk B.
From Boise, ID
Apr 6, 2013
belay slaving on some route I forgot the name of way right of Bloody Fingers.
What sort of beta are you after? It's a cool route, anyway.

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By Patrick Vernon
From Albuquerque, NM
Apr 6, 2013
mexico
I almost soloed it in 1999.

I fixed the first three pitches the day before, and went for the whole thing in a day. I didn't have a ton of aid climbing experience, I had been doing short practice pitches around town (Boulder) and that was about it. I had plenty of experience multi pitch free climbing. The aid wasn't too bad, easier than touchstone, and much easier than the Colorado northeast ridge on kingfisher. It is a much longer route however.

I made it halfway up the last aid pitch and bailed as it was getting dark. I had heard bad things about the final loose pitch and for whatever reason thought it would be better to rap. Two raps later my headlamp battery ran out, and it was a cloudy night. My ropes were two different diameters as well. At that time the only climbing fatality in Zion was from a climber rapping on ropes with two different diameters on prodigal sun. (one rope goes through the rappel device faster). It took a while, but I managed to rap slowly and find the anchors by hand and memory. I had to set up the rap and transfer from anchor to anchor all by feel.

Finally when I was on the ledge where I had fixed to the previous day I knew that tying the two ropes together would get me to the ground. I thought I would be passing the knot maybe a hundred feet off the ground and rapping on a single strand 8 mil for about a hundred feet. I didn't care at that point. Odly though the one thicker rope reached to about twenty feet above the ground. I came stuck on the knot about twenty feet above the ground, I was so happy to be about twenty feet off the ground I just didn't care. It took an hour of maneuvering in my fatigued state to get past the knot and on the ground. Then I got lost trying to navigate the cliff bands at the base. At one point I stumbled and slid for about twenty feet. Then my headlamp magically sprang to life! Damn. Such good memories.

So yes, go do it and have fun!

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By Calvino
From Bellingham, WA
Apr 6, 2013
getting ready for the final roof series
The bolt ladder off the ground makes it pretty safe, though I remember it being quite reachy. Like any Zion route, bring lots of TCUs and Off set nuts. I thought the free moves through the wrinkles were quite spicy (with approach shoes and tons of gear). It is probably closed right now for falcon nesting. Touchstone is open and easier

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By Stevie Nacho
From Utah
Apr 9, 2013
Make sure your tail line is tied into the belay with a locker before you take off for the pitch. This will prevent you from rapping off the end of the line when you are trying to get back to the belay. The very same situation caused a death in the 90's

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By Stevie Nacho
From Utah
Apr 9, 2013
Make sure your tail line is tied into the belay with a locker before you take off for the pitch. This will prevent you from rapping off the end of the line when you are trying to get back to the belay. The very same situation caused a death in the 90's

A good line to solo.

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By ParkerKempf
From atlanta, GA
Apr 9, 2013
sweet belay on El Cap Spire, Salathe Wall El Capitan
solo'd it this january. very straightforward route, i never had to do any mandatory 5.7, not sure what that was all about. i did handplace a large BD pecker a couple times which was nice, other than that i would say that it is a great intro to wall soloing/walling. all the C2 sections were pretty tame. pitch 5 & 6 were the money pitches, and that reachy hook at the end was verrry reachy. The supertaco rack was good from what i remember, i also had totem cams which are the bomb when it comes to flaring pinscars. there was alot of freeclimbing on pitch 7 but it is 5.5 or easier. the 5.6 chimney at the end has 2 or 3 bolts on the left main wall as you get to stances (though they arn't really necessary)

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By Ryan Chelstowski
From Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 13, 2013
inner chi
Thanks for the beta everyone!

FLAG
 
By Scott M. McNamara
From Tucson, Arizona
Apr 13, 2013
One Way Sunset
You might ask Olevsky.

He put it up.

He posts on Super Topo as "Toker Villian."

Good Luck!

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