in the past, we would park at the last campground and just hike the creek bed down. then the envirofreaks, frogs, or whatever got that campground closed. i still parked outside the gate, and walked down the creek, thinking the campground was all that was closed. but that way would put you on an old road, that is too close to the campground, at least according to the ranger lady tool.
so, access can be had from one of the other campground. just hike down the hill to chilao creek and head towards alder creek. eventually you will hit the sandy bottom boulders and once you get to the first set of big waterfalls, you will see obvious things to climb.
some of the established routes were put up a long time ago. and some by me in the late 80's, and... my favorite one was on a wall we called desert gold. obvious hen you see it. some thin nailing, hooking, and bashing, and a bolt or two gets you to the top.
if you go all the way down chilao creek it runs into alder creek. some cool falls there too, but the main attraction is a way cool roof crack that is a great aid line. i've enjoyed some rare ice down there too...
there are some fun free routes that go right up the falls, when they are not running of course...
I just did the freeway crack at Stoney. It's a 5.9 layback, but I did it at C1 5.7. Aid up the crack until it gets wide and ends, then climb out of your aiders and traverse right. Then either keep aiding up or do some 5.7 moves and top out. I used .5-3 cams and one hex.
Aiding the freeway crack Submitted By: Tristan B on May 27, 2012