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Unsorted Routes:

Aid Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dennis Merritt, Sam Streibert, 1971
Page Views: 1,828
Submitted By: John Peterson on Mar 10, 2006
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aid crack

Description 

An obvious crack system at the right side of the smooth wall at the left end of the cliff. Climb to a ledge and then descend right. Often TRed but leadable.


Location 

Just right of Animal Crack, left of a broken area.


Protection 

Standard traprock rack



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By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Jul 3, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13

not really any gear to be had after the crux. could use a pin or a bolt for the finish.

By Goodhue
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 10, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Had no problems with gear. Dropped big nut behind the jug after the crux. Small cam after that.

By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Apr 22, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13

we must not be talking the same route

By christopher adams
May 31, 2009

gear the whole way, if you have small enough pieces.

By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Jul 12, 2009

I climbed here years ago after college. I led a route in the middle of the face on the North End. I remember climbing up about 15-20' to a small horizontal crack and placed one or two small stoppers. The remaining face to the top had no gear and was quite thin. Anyone know what this route is? I would think it's 5.9 or so. I had two terribly sprained thumbs and couldn't use them at all. Difficult face climbing as I always wrap my thumbs around and on top of index fingers when crimping.

A local hardman back then commented when I topped out that it was a recent pretty bold new route. Who was that guy? Nichols??? A well known hard climber in CT... This had to be back in '81 or so. A friend took a whipper from almost the top and nearly hit the ground, a good 25' or so. How bad is my memory? What is the height of this North End face? Thanks!

By Devin Krevetski
From: West Woodstock, VT
Sep 16, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

knowing the beta definitely make this climb easier, fairly well protected.

By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Nov 17, 2011

The middle of the North end has a 5.13/14 proj along a very thin seam and water streak. Paul - I think you were to the right of middle on a climb that's now a 5.10/11 i think called the cage or something. . .