Aid Crack 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Dennis Merritt, Sam Streibert, 1971 |
| Submitted By: | John Peterson on Mar 10, 2006 |
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aid crack
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Description An obvious crack system at the right side of the smooth wall at the left end of the cliff. Climb to a ledge and then descend right. Often TRed but leadable.
Location Just right of Animal Crack, left of a broken area.
Protection Standard traprock rack
By Fall Guy Jul 3, 2008 rating: 5.10d PG13
| not really any gear to be had after the crux. could use a pin or a bolt for the finish. |
By Goodhue From: Boulder, CO Nov 10, 2008 rating: 5.10
| Had no problems with gear. Dropped big nut behind the jug after the crux. Small cam after that. |
By Fall Guy Apr 22, 2009 rating: 5.10d PG13
| we must not be talking the same route |
By Paul Rezucha From: Alameda Jul 12, 2009
| I climbed here years ago after college. I led a route in the middle of the face on the North End. I remember climbing up about 15-20' to a small horizontal crack and placed one or two small stoppers. The remaining face to the top had no gear and was quite thin. Anyone know what this route is? I would think it's 5.9 or so. I had two terribly sprained thumbs and couldn't use them at all. Difficult face climbing as I always wrap my thumbs around and on top of index fingers when crimping. A local hardman back then commented when I topped out that it was a recent pretty bold new route. Who was that guy? Nichols??? A well known hard climber in CT... This had to be back in '81 or so. A friend took a whipper from almost the top and nearly hit the ground, a good 25' or so. How bad is my memory? What is the height of this North End face? Thanks! |
By devkrev From: West Woodstock, VT Sep 16, 2010 rating: 5.10a
| knowing the beta definitely make this climb easier, fairly well protected. |
By CaptainMo Administrator Nov 17, 2011
| The middle of the North end has a 5.13/14 proj along a very thin seam and water streak. Paul - I think you were to the right of middle on a climb that's now a 5.10/11 i think called the cage or something. . . |
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