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The excellent (though polished and pin-scarred) crack just right of Huston Crack. This route is quite strenuous, but the gear is really straightforward, so give it a whirl if you're comfortable whipping on #3 RPs. It's also easy to scramble up the right side of the pillar and set up a toprope.
Small nuts and TCUs, with a couple of hand-sized cams for the belay.
|By Jeff Lockyer|
From: Canmore, AB
Aug 30, 2001
8/30/2001. An excellent line, although aided extensively by the notion of the pinscars on the route, which decreases the star rating I am sure. Be confident on hanging while scoping for gear on this one, or you may take those whippers on the small rp's. Sustained climbing with adequate protection. Before the final push place a small cam, or funky nut, as high as possible (by good laybacking fingers). This crack is very nice, with many great feet on the face, just look closely, and watch the polished crack with the feet a little dicey.... overall I would rate it 2 stars as well. Enjoyed..
|By Chad Stebbins|
Jun 24, 2002
I would call this 11- the first 15 feet, if you stay out of the hand crack to the left. Feet are tricky and and gear placement is strenuous. Also, I thought the gear was was limited about 15 feet up, just before the climbing eases a bit, so be careful if you are pushing it.
|By Jake Wyatt|
From: Longmont, CO
Jan 1, 2003
I know that the "crux" is almost certainly different during a lead, but for me (on toprope) the hardest moves felt like they were right at the top, where the crack became a little too narrow to jam. The lower moves seemed pretty straightforward.
|By Nate Christiansen|
Jun 27, 2003
This was my first climb in boulder canyon and I felt it was one of the coolest finger cracks around. the crux is full on tips jamming(possible 11a)and actually took good gear. the falcon guide book gives it the "s" rating, which I totally diasagree with. Great finger crack!!!
|By Matt Juth|
Jul 18, 2003
The upper 10d crux felt much easier to me than the start. A previous comment said the bottom felt like 11 if the hand crack was avoided. I would agree with that statement.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 18, 2003
Well, I haven't done a lot of hard granite crack climbing in the upper .10/.11 range, but compared to everything ELSE I've climbed in that range, this felt way harder than any .10d I've ever been on. For that matter, it even felt harder than the .11's I've been on. The start was pretty cruxy, but even more so was this funky section just after getting established with a piece after the start. The jams were like flared slopers and the moves with the feet were strenuous, to say the least. After that it seemed pretty straightforward until the top, which was the easiest of 3 cruxes to me. Oh, and the gear is bomber if you place well, and are confident on smaller stuff like RPs. Overall an excellent climb
|By Darin Lang|
Jul 18, 2003
Agreed that the lower section is rather 11ish. The pro is solid, although strenuous to place in spots. And speaking from experience, a black Alien and a #2 RP will hold a fall here.
|By Darren Mabe|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 21, 2003
First 15' is indeed pretty stiff for 10+, but maybe accurate if comparing to some polished pinscarred route in the Valley. Was it Church Bowl Tree, Matt, the "valley's greasiest climb"?
Too chickenshit to lead, I toproped and placed gear. Bomber and adequate gear can be found, but not so obvious. Strong climbers at that grade should not have trouble placing appropriate gear. excellent balancy fingercrack. Someday i would like to combine with East Crack...
|By Shane DeMars|
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 16, 2004
Easily one of my favorites. I've done this about four times now and don't see getting tired of it. The gear is great if you're good at placing it. I can sew it up and still have everything bigger than a blue Alien. I've never needed RPs on it and only use one medium to small nut. It works if you wait till after your fingers are done using the placements before stuffing gear in them. A good challenge for the grade. Doing the .10a thin crack up the face makes an excellent 2nd pitch.S
|By Brian Weinstein|
Jun 27, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Nice line. This route seems to be finger width dependent. Those folks with skinny fingers will find the jams solid and trustworthy. The meatier-fingers might have a bit more trouble with them jams.
|By Colin Kenneth|
From: Berkeley, CA
Sep 25, 2008
This route does not lend well to larger hands...I have kind of a meat hook syndrome, so "tips" becomes very literal. My friend can lock into secure jams most of the time on this where as once I leave the ground I feel like I am twisting the hell out of my fingernails and getting no purchase whatsoever.
The route is essentially over once you are about 18 feet up in my opinion. There is FAN TASTIC climbing above, but compared to the section you've just forced your way up the top half seems 5.9-, even going straight up rather than bear-hugging with the right edge of Huston.
From: austin TX
Nov 18, 2008
The route is basically over after the first 18 feet, in fact there is a perfect no hands rest before the upper crux which isn't a give me, but you need to get past those initial 18 feet regardless, right Mr. Mills?
Jan 19, 2009
Went here today to practice aid (nuts and cams only), and it was gorgeous. Even though it was always in the shade, the bottom of the route was dry and I was fine with themals and a jacket.
Check it out if the warmth sticks around.
From: Boulder CO
Jul 21, 2010
After sending Gill Crack about a month ago, I thought 10d finger crack would not be such a big deal, but I was wrong. This route is HARD. Crux is 12-15ft up, and feet are much less than desired. Pro is not easy, but a lot of possibilities exist.
|By Phill T|
Aug 21, 2011
Good line to practice clean aid (duh). A camhook helps get through the crux about 15 feet up. For a nice 2nd and 3rd pitch, you can link with the the first bit of the second pitch of Night Vision up to the two pitons and then follow up East Crack to a good belay, then fire for the summit. I found a hook very useful on the 2nd pitch below the small roof. C2, C2+ for the first pitch, C1-C2 for the rest. No gear bigger than a #3 Camalot.
|By Jon C. Sullivan|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 19, 2012
I find that this climb is somewhere in the lower 5.11 grade. Way too much fun, but I jumped on it without any guide for a flash attempt and ended up projecting it, and it should have been well within my limits. Pro is very tricky. My blue TCU popped out. But overall, a very fun climb.