Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Aid Climbing the Prow on Cathedral Ledge
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Jul 23, 2012
Trap Dike
Hi Everyone,

I was planning on a aid climb of the Prow at CL, my partner (and the air climber) is now unable to make it. I was hoping to find someone who had experience aid climbing, or specifically aiding the Prow, so as to not loose the opportunity. I am able to make the climb any day, this Friday-Monday (27th-30th). I have never aid climbed anything, but can lead 5.9 and was trying to get some experience aiding.

Please let me know if you're interested,

Dave
Dave Schultz
From Saratoga Springs, New York
Joined Sep 11, 2011
329 points
Jul 23, 2012
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protec...
if you cant find anyone, solo aid with some clove hitches... rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Joined Dec 20, 2009
253 points
Jul 24, 2012
rock_fencer wrote:
if you cant find anyone, solo aid with some clove hitches...


Jumping on the Prow with no aid experience is probably not a good idea. Single-pitch C1 would be the place to learn...
Auto-X Fil
From NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Joined Aug 1, 2010
46 points
Jul 24, 2012
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades
There's good bolt ladder practice at the boulder whose name I forgot near the church. Le Conte?

You can practice there and tune your system while waiting for a partner. Look in Camp 4...
randy88fj62
Joined May 28, 2010
67 points
Jul 24, 2012
randy88fj62 wrote:
There's good bolt ladder practice at the boulder whose name I forgot near the church. Le Conte? You can practice there and tune your system while waiting for a partner. Look in Camp 4...


Not sure how much luck you'll have finding a partner for Cathedral Ledge in Camp 4.

Maybe you know something we don't.
Don MacKenzie
From Seattle, WA
Joined Apr 18, 2009
22 points
Jul 24, 2012
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades
I was thinking of the prow on washington column and dinner ledge. randy88fj62
Joined May 28, 2010
67 points
Jul 25, 2012
No backcountry in the ADKs
Having never aid climbed before The Prow may be a poor choice to learn. Since you live in Saratoga I'd recommend heading to the ADKs and practicing on some single pitch cracks. Pick a slow day at the Spiders Web or Beer walls or somewhere else that has some half rope length cracks and get the system dialed. That's what I did, and aiding these sorts of things on rainy days is still pretty fun once in a while.

Also, if you've never aid climbed I'm assuming that you haven't jummared much either (?), definitely have that system down (i.e. daisy length, back ups, etc...) before heading up a multi-pitch aid route or you'll waste a lot of time.

The Prow is a great route and a ton of fun. When you get around to doing it you're going to love it.
MaxSuffering
From KVNY
Joined Jul 25, 2012
5 points
Jul 25, 2012
Let's be honest, the Prow isn't some crazy difficult route, fairly straight forward. You can bail from any point with two ropes.
P1 is simple 5.7.
P2 is a bolt ladder.
P3 is a simple C1.
P4/P5 are a slight more complicated, but nothing too difficult.
P6 is great figure crack.
If you have to bail and leave gear, you can always drive back up to the top, rap down and get your gears back.
divnamite
From New York, NY
Joined Aug 1, 2007
213 points
Jul 25, 2012
Rock wars, Red River Gorge
randy88fj62 wrote:
I was thinking of the prow on washington column and dinner ledge.


In the eastern states forum?
shoo
Joined Aug 9, 2010
74 points
Jul 25, 2012
No backcountry in the ADKs
divnamite wrote:
Let's be honest, the Prow isn't some crazy difficult route, fairly straight forward. You can bail from any point with two ropes. P1 is simple 5.7. P2 is a bolt ladder. P3 is a simple C1. P4/P5 are a slight more complicated, but nothing too difficult. P6 is great figure crack. If you have to bail and leave gear, you can always drive back up to the top, rap down and get your gears back.


Yup, I'll agree with all of that but I still wouldn't send somebody with NO AID CLIMBING EXPERIENCE up there for their first time. High Exposure is pretty easy too (let's be honest, it's 5.6), ever send someone up it to learn how to lead? Me either.

As for rapping from the top to get gear back... yeah, that sounds like more trouble than it's worth to recover a couple of stoppers and 'biners.

Just my opinion.
MaxSuffering
From KVNY
Joined Jul 25, 2012
5 points
Aug 20, 2012
divnamite wrote:
Let's be honest, the Prow isn't some crazy difficult route, fairly straight forward. You can bail from any point with two ropes. P1 is simple 5.7. P2 is a bolt ladder. P3 is a simple C1. P4/P5 are a slight more complicated, but nothing too difficult. P6 is great figure crack. If you have to bail and leave gear, you can always drive back up to the top, rap down and get your gears back.


Does P1 go at C1/C2?
kilonot
Joined Jan 25, 2012
1 points
Aug 20, 2012
Depends on which you go with P1. Most people don't go up the slab which is 5.10. If you stay to the left, it's a 5.7. Hauling is a bitch for sure. divnamite
From New York, NY
Joined Aug 1, 2007
213 points
Aug 20, 2012
Dave,
If you don't find a partner for aid and want to get some free stuff in on Friday, let me know... lead around 10a and would love to get out at Cathedral.
-Pat
pgcooke
Joined Aug 13, 2011
15 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.  
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!