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Aid Climbing the Prow on Cathedral Ledge
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By Dave Schultz
From Everett, Washington
Jul 23, 2012
Trap Dike

Hi Everyone,

I was planning on a aid climb of the Prow at CL, my partner (and the air climber) is now unable to make it. I was hoping to find someone who had experience aid climbing, or specifically aiding the Prow, so as to not loose the opportunity. I am able to make the climb any day, this Friday-Monday (27th-30th). I have never aid climbed anything, but can lead 5.9 and was trying to get some experience aiding.

Please let me know if you're interested,

Dave


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Jul 23, 2012
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

if you cant find anyone, solo aid with some clove hitches...


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By Auto-X Fil
From NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Jul 24, 2012

rock_fencer wrote:
if you cant find anyone, solo aid with some clove hitches...


Jumping on the Prow with no aid experience is probably not a good idea. Single-pitch C1 would be the place to learn...


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By randy88fj62
Jul 24, 2012
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades

There's good bolt ladder practice at the boulder whose name I forgot near the church. Le Conte?

You can practice there and tune your system while waiting for a partner. Look in Camp 4...


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By Don MacKenzie
From Seattle, WA
Jul 24, 2012

randy88fj62 wrote:
There's good bolt ladder practice at the boulder whose name I forgot near the church. Le Conte? You can practice there and tune your system while waiting for a partner. Look in Camp 4...


Not sure how much luck you'll have finding a partner for Cathedral Ledge in Camp 4.

Maybe you know something we don't.


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By randy88fj62
Jul 24, 2012
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades

I was thinking of the prow on washington column and dinner ledge.


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By MaxSuffering
From KVNY
Jul 25, 2012

Having never aid climbed before The Prow may be a poor choice to learn. Since you live in Saratoga I'd recommend heading to the ADKs and practicing on some single pitch cracks. Pick a slow day at the Spiders Web or Beer walls or somewhere else that has some half rope length cracks and get the system dialed. That's what I did, and aiding these sorts of things on rainy days is still pretty fun once in a while.

Also, if you've never aid climbed I'm assuming that you haven't jummared much either (?), definitely have that system down (i.e. daisy length, back ups, etc...) before heading up a multi-pitch aid route or you'll waste a lot of time.

The Prow is a great route and a ton of fun. When you get around to doing it you're going to love it.


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By divnamite
From New York, NY
Jul 25, 2012

Let's be honest, the Prow isn't some crazy difficult route, fairly straight forward. You can bail from any point with two ropes.
P1 is simple 5.7.
P2 is a bolt ladder.
P3 is a simple C1.
P4/P5 are a slight more complicated, but nothing too difficult.
P6 is great figure crack.
If you have to bail and leave gear, you can always drive back up to the top, rap down and get your gears back.


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By shoo
From Boston, Massachusetts
Jul 25, 2012
Rock wars, Red River Gorge

randy88fj62 wrote:
I was thinking of the prow on washington column and dinner ledge.


In the eastern states forum?


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By MaxSuffering
From KVNY
Jul 25, 2012

divnamite wrote:
Let's be honest, the Prow isn't some crazy difficult route, fairly straight forward. You can bail from any point with two ropes. P1 is simple 5.7. P2 is a bolt ladder. P3 is a simple C1. P4/P5 are a slight more complicated, but nothing too difficult. P6 is great figure crack. If you have to bail and leave gear, you can always drive back up to the top, rap down and get your gears back.


Yup, I'll agree with all of that but I still wouldn't send somebody with NO AID CLIMBING EXPERIENCE up there for their first time. High Exposure is pretty easy too (let's be honest, it's 5.6), ever send someone up it to learn how to lead? Me either.

As for rapping from the top to get gear back... yeah, that sounds like more trouble than it's worth to recover a couple of stoppers and 'biners.

Just my opinion.


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By kilonot
Aug 20, 2012

divnamite wrote:
Let's be honest, the Prow isn't some crazy difficult route, fairly straight forward. You can bail from any point with two ropes. P1 is simple 5.7. P2 is a bolt ladder. P3 is a simple C1. P4/P5 are a slight more complicated, but nothing too difficult. P6 is great figure crack. If you have to bail and leave gear, you can always drive back up to the top, rap down and get your gears back.


Does P1 go at C1/C2?


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By divnamite
From New York, NY
Aug 20, 2012

Depends on which you go with P1. Most people don't go up the slab which is 5.10. If you stay to the left, it's a 5.7. Hauling is a bitch for sure.


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By pgcooke
Aug 20, 2012

Dave,
If you don't find a partner for aid and want to get some free stuff in on Friday, let me know... lead around 10a and would love to get out at Cathedral.
-Pat


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