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Las Agujas (The Spires)
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Aguja Celo Rey 
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Through the Looking Glass 
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Aguja Celo Rey 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ramon Ramirez and Club Celo Rey, 1964
Page Views: 4,991
Submitted By: Jimmy McAllan on Jan 30, 2007
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Through the "eye" on pitch 1.

Description 

Classic.

P1: Start at a broken ramp just right of a small palm tree. The crux is at the bulge just before reaching the "eye". Continue up to the notch between the two towers on easy ground. 8 bolts and 110 feet.

P2: Climb the south arete of Chico Spire. Thin moves right on the corner go to some old Mexican iron rings right on the summit (modern rap anchors are 5 feet below). 6 bolts and about 70 feet.

Descent: Make one double rope (50m) rappel down the south face of Chico Spire. Or rap the way you came with a single 60m rope, but be careful downclimbing the last 10 feet of the first pitch.


Location 

Route is located on the North side of the Spires


Protection 

Bolts and some old Mexican iron.



Photos of Aguja Celo Rey Slideshow Add Photo
Lucie on the Tyrolean traverse from the eastern needle (Aguja Grande, after climbing "Off the Notch" 5.10) back to the top of "Aguja Celo Rey" on the Aguja Chica.
Lucie on the Tyrolean traverse from the eastern ne...
summit...TWZ in the background
summit...TWZ in the background
Half way up the second pitch
Half way up the second pitch
First Pitch Gnar Gnar!
First Pitch Gnar Gnar!
The summit
The summit
Nick just below the crux of pitch 1.
Nick just below the crux of pitch 1.
Megan at the summit.  The Grande Spire just across the way
Megan at the summit. The Grande Spire just across...
one of the most exposed 5.10 sport routes around...miss G crushing
one of the most exposed 5.10 sport routes around.....
2nd pitch
2nd pitch
Photo Opp on the rappel. Through the looking Glass!
Photo Opp on the rappel. Through the looking Glass...
sweet shadows
sweet shadows
Robyn heading up the thin and exposed second pitch of Aguja Celo Rey to the summit of the Chico Spire.
Robyn heading up the thin and exposed second pitch...
Comments on Aguja Celo Rey Add Comment
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By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 21, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

This route totally rocks! The top of the spire is incredible, as I recall, only about 2 people can fit (maybe only one). If the wind is up, then communication with your second sucks at the first belay. Bring some longer runners to avoid rope drag. Also, note that this route is 8 bolts for the 110 ft - as I recall, the bolt spacing is not even, and I would suggest a smaller cam for the first pitch before the crux (somebody else might have some better beta for this).

By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Apr 2, 2008

For pitch one, you might feel compelled to try the crack where the saddle between the spires forms, but stay on holds to the right and you'll have less trouble. Some of the old, hand-made pins remain from the Mexican first ascentionists.

By Michael G
Jan 7, 2009

I brought a set of stoppers for pitch one and placed two of them. Also, I found the crux to be the dark pod/offwidth directly behind "Nick" in the photo above. I cut out onto the face once the offwidth tapered off (maybe 4/5 feet above bolt?). I also clipped some bolts off the arete of the "looking glass" hole beneath the saddle before heading back onto the face. Seemed to be the logical line, and couldn't figure what other route those bolts could have been for. Great route, both pitches are stellar!

By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Jan 10, 2012

Super Fun route to access the top of the Small Spire! The First pitch is slightly run out between higher bolts but if you bring a longer sling there is a thread through you can do to reduce it, regardless the climbing is over easy terrain. Second Pitch is unreal!! First time I climbed a spire and it was everything I imagined and more!! Go to the Summit proper for some exciting exposure, but watch out for the cactus!!!