Apr 23, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Really fun climb. This pitch has a little bit of everything--thin cracks, crimps, bouldery moves, hand jams, bulge-pulling, and chimneying/off-width. A nice long pitch if you link it up to the Crack of Dawn anchors.
The direct start is very reasonable (G/PG), with a few pitons as well as good gear placements.
There's a wee chockstone right on the edge of the crack that's kinda creepy to stand on. Be sure to bring enough runners, as some placements (especially in the chimney) are deep.
Also, my 70 meter rope got me down to the ledge about 6 feet up on Triple S. Have your belayer tie a knot in the end of your rope though before the lower/tie them yourself for the rappel, because it's close.