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The North End
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Aggro Monk S 
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Function, The S 
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Quiet Time S 
Stairway to Heaven S 
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Unknown S 
Up Your Booty Crack S 

Aggro Monk 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Don Goodhue
Page Views: 484
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Oct 12, 2010

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The left side of the "Heaven" wall. Note that the...

Description 

Aggro Monk is a good line involving a really fun, athletic boulder problem to clear a body-length roof, and a sustained finish that builds a steady pump. Unfortunately the rock on the upper headwall is not as good as it looks, detracting slightly from the route's quality.

Scramble up the right end of the flake to a no-hands stance below the roof. A hard move gains the break, then launch out the horizontal roof on small but sinker pockets. Clever beta or wild dynos will get you over the lip to a poor rest. Long, technical moves between small crimps and the odd pocket weave deviously up the stout headwall.

Location 

On the Heaven Wall (which is near the left end of The North End). This is the second route from the left.

Protection 

~6 bolts to 2 BA. Currently there are fixed draws on the headwall. Bring a sling or long draw for the first bolt (DMM Revolver helps). There's a big runout on 5.3-ish terrain to reach the first bolt.


Photos of Aggro Monk Slideshow Add Photo
Starting up over the roof.
Starting up over the roof.
The technical upper headwall.
The technical upper headwall.

Comments on Aggro Monk Add Comment
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By slim
Administrator
Oct 12, 2010

Mono, are you sure you would recommend a Revolver for the first bolt? Falling on a Revolver at the first bolt would be guaranteed crater.
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 12, 2010

Due to lack of friction btwn the rope & biner? I think it's doubtful one would fall onto the first bolt, since you can clip the second easily from the horizontal break. Plus the 2nd bolt is close enough that you never really lead above the 1st bolt, and the 1st is ~30' up, so you'd have to pull the belayer that far to hit the ground, which would be hard to do on what amounts to a TR fall. But ya, use your own judgment.
By slim
Administrator
Oct 12, 2010

Seems like just unclipping the first would be the way to go. Have you ever seen what happens when somebody falls on a pulley with very little friction anywhere else? Total meat launch for the belayer and total meat bomb for the climber.
By Darryl Roth
Oct 19, 2010

Now, this could be totally hallucinatory, but I recall that Don pulled a figure 4 at, or slightly over the roof. I tried the move that way, but sussed other beta. Seemed liked he had no trouble doing it though.