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Memorial Day Buttress
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Aggression 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Lynn Wheeler & Jay Andersen in 1983
Page Views: 230
Submitted By: Spencer Weiler on Apr 17, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Aggression

Description 

Short. This one makes Plumb Line seem like a full 60m pitch. 6-7 finger locks, a few .3 camalots and your on top. Not a gimme, but the length makes it an easy onsight for your ego. Could be bouldered honestly if you feel good about it. I chose not to but its that short. Do a couple laps continuously to actually make it seem like a real climb.


Location 

Hike up huge hill to the memorial day buttress. This is the obvious short right leaning finger crack that ends in lots of bushels atop a small ledge. Not hard to find. Can be seen from the road if you look hard enough.


Protection 

single set tcu's, small nuts. Completely worthless rusted piece of ___ bolt that should not be used sits above the ledge as a severely not recommended anchor. Build a nest of small gear atop the crack to lower off, or lasso a small bushel(scary?) then when you're finished clean it and downclimb the 5.5 crack to the right.



Photos of Aggression Slideshow Add Photo
Aggression.  Sloped/slab landing w/ dead trees for anchors.  Note: The crux starts 3/4 the way up.
Aggression. Sloped/slab landing w/ dead trees for...
At the "cross" a #.5 works very well, then a #.3 - The higher you go the smaller the width of the crack (down to C3 territory);  however, plenty of constrictions give way to lots of finger locks and great nut placements!
At the "cross" a #.5 works very well, then a...
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By bsmoot
Apr 18, 2012

F.A. Lynn Wheeler & Jay Andersen in 1983

Just prior to the first ascent, Lynn and I worked on this route experimenting with thin toed ked's which fit better in the narrow crack than the old climbing shoes that were available at the time. We each got within a move or two of the top that afternoon. A few days later, Lynn sent it.