Start up Orange Out but stay in the left hand side of the diehdral. Usually there are some bushes here since most everyone stays right. You can contrive harder moves if you just strictly climb the left dihedral.
At the top of this left hand book is a small roof with a thin crack splitting out the left side and onto the blank face above.
It's the continuation of the dihedral and is very obvious.
Climb onto the thin face and then exit up the thin corner that is on the left hand side of the Orange Out Direct block.
I'd tried this a few times and never trusted the nuts. Steve did and pulled it off.
I don't know, it's possible small TCUs would make a huge difference and fit in the crack. Certainly you get great gear once you get up and onto the face for a couple of moves.
I don't know if this is really an R but rather than sandbag some poor leader, I'll call it an R. If you blow the placements and come off it certainly would be a nasty spot to fall.
|By david d|
May 5, 2011
not R rated. protects easily.
From: Tucson, AZ
May 6, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
I recall getting a lot of small gear on this one: small chocks, ball nuts, and aliens. I remember some of it was placed from strenuous stances.
|By Paul Davidson|
Feb 4, 2014
I should add, the FA era was pre small cams. So this was all on passive wired gear. Good to know the small stuff sews it up.