Agent Orange 5.12a
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| Type: | Trad, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Mike Artz, Eddie Begoon, Kris Kline, 1983 |
| Submitted By: | Kris Gorny on May 15, 2007 |
| |
At the crux of Agent Orange. Circa '98.
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Description Start below an overhanging orange pillar. Climb up to the pillar and follow a crack to its right (#3.5, #3 Camalot just below the pillar, orange TCU fits the crack on top of the pillar). From the top of the pillar (semi-rest) continue through the overhanging section. The crux move is pulling a sequence of flaring finger jams to finally some good holds at the top. Unless the conditions are dry (spring or fall) the crux jams are slimy and close to impossible.
Location From the Tree Route follow the trail towards the South Bridge Wall. The trail initially goes down but soon starts up and arrives at the cliff near a distinct corner with Your Mother. Just around this corner is an alcove/pit with an overhanging orange face to the right. That's the climb.
Protection Mid to small cams, TCU's. The crux can be protected with a bomber nut placement at the small overhang to the right (#9, #10 Metolius and similar). The crack next to the pillar is very slick so zip it up. I once fell before placing the bomber nut, pulled the TCU, and ended up close to a ground fall.
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 6, 2008
| I agree with the protection comment about "zip it up" on the crack next the pillar. I once fell there and saw my red Camalot track 2 inches before holding the fall! |
By furrymurry
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 6, 2009
rating: 5.12a
| I don't see how anyone rated this climb "PG13," it protects extremely well throughout. Beautiful line. |
By Ben Sachs
Jun 24, 2009
rating: 5.11d
| Yep, super safe. If this seems scary, don't climb at bridge. |
By camhead
From: The Old Northwest
Jul 2, 2009
rating: 5.11d
| excellent climb, it is just sad that it stays so damp so much. By NRG standards this route is G rated, with very ample protection. It just depends on how much gas you are willing to burn by stopping to place gear. |
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Aug 3, 2009
| Thank you for your contributions guys. Following the above posts I updated the rating and removed 'PG13'. Did it 10 years ago and at first attempt I pulled out a TCU and almost decked--hence my impression. I agree that the "zip it up" kinda contradicts "PG-13". I also appreciate your advice, Ben, but I'll continue to climb at the bridge when I'm in the area :) |
By Monica Jones
Nov 15, 2010
rating: 5.11d
| Probably my favorite climb at the New, beautiful with great gear the whole way. You do have to do a little bouldering at the beginning before you get your first piece in the horizontal, but it's easy climbing. Just be careful and have a spot through it. |
By Sam Stephens
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.11d
| Managed to bag this after long being intimidated by it. TRd it once three years ago when it was way way above me, took an end of the day run on it the other week and sent in less than optimal temps Sunday. Easily done with 6 pieces that are beyond bomber, plus the fixed nut if you know where to look. I agree the crack may be prone to skating some cams, but the right placements won't allow a cam to skate. Don't be afraid to climb a little instead of placing gear every move and you'll be fine. |
By Rick Mix
Jul 19, 2012
| This was .11c in 1988. G rated pro. Way Awesome route. |
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