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 ADVANCED
Lower Left Wall / Ventilator Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Age Before Beauty 
Bombardment 
Effects of Kind Bud on an Abnormal Brain, The 
Ego Trip 
Fisting Jon (AKA Leafspring) 
Fun House 
Fun House Left 
Happy Trails 
Once Upon A Climb 
One Hit To The Body 
Pleasant St. 
Pooh 
Son Of A Birch 
Starfire (Yo-Yo) 
Three Birches 
Ventilated Western Girl 
Ventilator 
Western Lady/ California Girls 
Unsorted Routes:

Age Before Beauty 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: George Hurley
Page Views: 813
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 3, 2010
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Joshua Corbett firing the lower section on lead.

Description 

This has been mentioned as a direct start for Bombardment and as a more fitting start to Ventilator. Really it's short but it's kind of its own route, link it up how you choose. Pretty good but a little short.

Start as for bombardment but rather than going hard right to the Pleasent St slab go straight up past three obvious bolts on a steep fairly blank slab. I called it 10a cause it's like the climbing on Ventalator and The Book which seem to be standards in the grade for Cathedral. Turns out it's 5.9 in the new book, sounds fine to me.


Location 

Right above the start of Bombardment.


Protection 

3 bolts and gear if you want it.



Photos of Age Before Beauty Slideshow Add Photo
Joshua making it look easy.
Joshua making it look easy.
This picture speaks for itself.  I'm just not sure what it's saying...
This picture speaks for itself. I'm just not sure...
Comments on Age Before Beauty Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 3, 2012
By john strand
From: southern colo
May 4, 2010

I don't know who did the f/a, but if I remember right (which I may not) this was a 9+ start with a bit of a grip factor. I think 1 bolt. I know I belayed/spotted a friend on it around '82 for her first "10A" lead.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
May 4, 2010

I'm pretty sure it's a george hurley route too. Lee, if you are interested in more info, post over at NEclimbs and they might have a route name or year of ascent. This route came up a few years ago in a thread.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 4, 2010

I dont need any more info, just pointing out the line for people... if anyone cares what i call it, ill change it.... and i did put FA george hurley so i dont know why the confusion...

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
May 5, 2010

What confusion? With the question mark I figured you didn't know the route name (neither do I). And since you posted it, I figured you cared at least a little about it. So...I'm sorry i tried to give some follow up info?

I'll edit my post to avoid anymore confusion!

By john strand
From: southern colo
May 5, 2010

No more info ? I thought this was " beyond the guidebook ? " and everyone wanted move by move beta ?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 5, 2010

i always mean to be nice, always... im sorry sincerly if it didnt seem so... i do care about the route and thats why i posted it... i wasnt concerned about the name... sorry again... what i meant is that if someone else was concerned with the name id be more than willing to change it to whatever its supossed to be... as for the confusion comment i was referencing the discussion about who did the FA when i had put that in the description already... thank you for the follow up info... i will look again at my description and make sure it is up to my standards... if anyone else wants to write one id be happy to take mine down, what i do on this site i do for the community and my love of climbing if people dont like my stuff im really happy to let them take over... sorry always to anyone i offend...

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 5, 2010

Description looks fine! Not a single ellipsis. :)

By john strand
From: southern colo
May 5, 2010

just bustin ' Lee

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 5, 2010

i figured you were john... thanks :)

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
May 5, 2010

I'm amazed you were even able to write that much about the route!

Don't worry about being nice or too nice or not nice enough, this is the internet and I'm sure we all have thick skin. I don't know you from a hole in the wall, but you come across like a friendly & helpfull guy. Every other route you post is very detailed to the point of you researching the climb, this being the only reason I added a place where you might be able to get some more info. If I had posted the route my info would have been far less informative than yours are. Maybe only slightly better than Strand's route descriptions!

Just kidding John.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 5, 2010

thank you sir... no harm done... i guess i just get touchy about internet comunication, its so impersonal... if more people went out of their way to be super friendly the internet would be a nicer "place" to be... thanks again for your additional comment, clears the air a bit...

By john strand
From: southern colo
May 6, 2010

You mean like - 'climb up like slab" ?

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
May 6, 2010

Exactly, I would have at least said, 'climb up like slab, past some bolts'.

By Matt Desenberg
From: Wells, Me
Aug 25, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

I'm more of a crack climber but I've climbed enough slabs here and there. Maybe it's just me, but I think ths is a total sandbag at 5.9. .10a or even 10b is more like it.

By JChepes
From: Chocorua, NH
Aug 26, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

9+ would be my thoughts. Could be 10ish on a humid day. Either/or a pleasant way to approach bombardment.

By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 3, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Felt like a .9+ to me today, as it did last July when I lead it.