Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
North Fin
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5 O'Clock Shadow S 
Agatha Christie (Direct) T,TR 
Air Monsters S 
Billionaire Boys Club T 
Close Shave T 
Edge of Da-light, The T 
Genevive S 
Get Low 
Gladiator T 
Hai Karate T,TR 
Histoplasmosis T 
Killer Whale S,TR 
Nang S 
Noodler S 
Rocket Science S 
Skin Bracer T 
Slippery When Wet T 
Thumbs Up S 
Tree Monsters S 
Writer's Cramp T 

Agatha Christie (Direct) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Steiger, Rich Thompson
Page Views: 7,118
Submitted By: James DeRoussel on Nov 17, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (84)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]

Description 

This Lemmon classic is a must-do for tradsters solid in the grade. Fun, but sustained and not entirely casual. Climb broken, blocky dihedrals up to large corner. Layback a beautiful flake up and right for about 12 ft. Exit this flake and finish straight up face to chains. Either lower or walk off.

Protection 

Bring a 60m rope and Pro to 2.5". Chain anchors on top. Bring biners and webbing for extension and toproping.


Photos of Agatha Christie (Direct) Slideshow Add Photo
Top half of the climb
Top half of the climb
The rope marks the line I took roughly, a little zig zagging involved.
BETA PHOTO: The rope marks the line I took roughly, a little z...
Most of the climb.
Most of the climb.
Jan on the direct start.
Jan on the direct start.
Melissa on Agatha Christie...
Melissa on Agatha Christie...
Fun movement for the grade.
Fun movement for the grade.

Comments on Agatha Christie (Direct) Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 19, 2013
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Nov 30, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I seem to remember one of the blocks down low was flexing quite a bit the last time I climbed this one. That was probably back in '01 or '02.
By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 28, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great climb! Don't think I'd recommend it as a first lead, though, which Squeezing the Lemmon does as well. I found it a bit tricky to protect and it was my 110th lead (yes, I keep track, I'm a dork).
By Linnea Williams
Jun 7, 2006

This is a great climb to take a beginner to and throw them on TR. My buddy who is new to climbing outdoors really enjoyed it.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jun 16, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Also wouldn't recommend this for an onsight lead attempt by a beginning trad leader..The climb is steeper than it looks from the bottom, there's some balancy stances and committing moves, and knowing when to sling long is important.

There's bomber pro to be had, but a beginner could easily end up using some of the flaring and/or irregular stuff that might hold a good yank but not a lead fall ( i.e. a placement where you can see two of the cams are well-set but the other two are hard to see and could be tipped out). With all the blocky, ledgy stuff, any fall that pulls a piece is guaranteed to be ugly.

I placed 9 cams + one nut on this. There's probably more passive pro to be had, but I would recommend against going up with just a handful of cams, which might be just the case for a beginner starting his rack.
By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
Mar 31, 2007

Worth repeating! The layback halfway up felt like the crux with ok pro.
By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Oct 25, 2007

the large flake right at the start of this route is loose. pop a cam in and watch it wiggle. it's likely to fall right where you want to put your rope, so be aware. fun climbing on less than solid rock, i doubt a first time leader would be comfy with the gear
By Kyle Andringa
From: Sahuarita, AZ
May 9, 2008
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I toproped this since I don't have any trad gear. I would say the majority of the route is a 5.7 with 5.8 at the right-sloping crack midway up. That crack is PERFECT. It was a nice break from some of the razor edge rock on the rest of North Fin.
By Ryan Suedkamp
Oct 25, 2009

I have lead this climb a couple of times over the last 5 years. There is a lot of blocks that flexed when I pulled on them this time around. I don't know if it is all the traffic it has seen over the years but I don't think it is to safe anymore, especially for the belayer.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 8, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

i don't understand why this climb is so popular. the gear isn't great and the climbing is blocky and ledgy and like people have said, some of the flakes are flexing. i can understand 3 stars (i guess), but 4? is this a collective effort by the tucson climbing community to keep out-of-towners away and the crowds small? i can see it now; people from boulder getting on this climb and saying, "seriously? this is a tucson classic? all the non-classics must suck."

if the plan is to keep the crowds away i'm all for that, i just never got the memo is all.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 8, 2009

Climbed it three times last weekend and didn't have a flexing hold anywhere that I could tell. The pro if placed properly is bomber and pretty much every where you need it. Not a four star route but a really good one for the grade.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 13, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

three stars i can see. four just seems like the starbucks effect; it's popular because it's popular.
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 21, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I climbed it for the first time on gear today and thought it was excellent. Fun mild climbing with plenty of bomber placements. I didn't feel any flexing holds. In my opinion it is better than "Slippery When Wet".
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 3, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

aw c'mon! someone has to agree with me. otherwise i'll have to log onto an alt and agree with myself.
By Don Buland
Dec 10, 2009

oh yeah, i totally agree with jon on this one. completely overrated climb. by the way i have no connection with jon whatsoever and i am totally not his alt, but i think this guy's really smart and you should all agree with him.
By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 10, 2009

Is this the same Don Buland who hangs out in the bars, telling all the ladies what a stud Jon is?
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 10, 2009

Don Buland wrote:
oh yeah, i totally agree with jon on this one. completely overrated climb. by the way i have no connection with jon whatsoever and i am totally not his alt, but i think this guy's really smart and you should all agree with him.


lol jon!!!
By Don Buland
Dec 17, 2009

yeah joe that would be me. i mean what can i say, jon is a beautiful man and chicks dig him, so ladies, you'd better get him while he's still getable! no i'm seriously, he'll be gone before you know it because of all the ladies who are after him. i guarantee you in 3 or 4 years he'll be taken. maybe available again by that time but he'll have been take for at least a month or 2!
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 17, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

eh geir what did i do? i don't know who this don buland guy is but he sounds like he knows what he's talking about.
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 13, 2011

This climb is so fun... finally led it today as my 3rd trad lead and had no issues. Protects well and from generally great stances.
By Johnny Ice
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 30, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Its good but not sure why its so popular. We had a party waiting in line after us for it like it was some kind of super classic. I had fun but some gear placements that look good might not be so great due to hollow rock. Like always, make sure to check the rock to see if its solid. Its a nice climb if you don't mind people wandering around from Windy point yelling in disbelief at those "crazy rock climbers!"
By Tradoholic
Dec 11, 2012

There are much better climbs around Windy Point than this one, turn around and do "Old Man" 5.9 for one.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 19, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

AS an outsider, I looked at this route and thought is was contrived and dirty appearing. Wrong. Great line, fun moves, just pure nice 5.8 climbing.