Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) 5.12b
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Chris D. moves over the bulge crux as Nick T. bela...
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Description Beautiful route just right of Siege Warfare! Climb steep overhung rock at the bottom section and pull the bulge. From there continue up slabby technical rock to the anchors underneath the large overhang. The crux varies, some people feel it is pulling the bulge while others feel like it is going through a technical crimpy section near the top 2/3rds of the climb.
Location Center of the Main Wall, just right of Siege Warfare, identifiable by the glue-in first bolt.
See beta picture.
Protection 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Page making her way up the technical face while on...
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"Unapproved beta" usage by Keith on Against Nature...
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| Comments on Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) |
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By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 9, 2007
| Note that the beta photo that I created is slightly incorrect on this route. I apologies for that. Should someone post a new photo I am more than happy to replace the current one. |
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 8, 2007
| Super fun route. Hard moves off the deck with a good rest right afterward. Fun, balancy moves higher up too. |
By Scott Beguin
Aug 30, 2007
rating: 5.12b
| First ascent was Peter Gram, who was aided by many other belay slaves. This was put up on lead. |
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 6, 2009
rating: 5.12a
| Preclip the 2nd bolt or you will probably deck from 10-12' up, should you fall at the crux. Most people skip the first bolt, as it's hard to clip from the easiest way climbing to its right, and it's almost too low to be useful. This is because the ground level is higher now than when the climb was put up.
Leaders near their limit will find it helpful if they don't have to hang the draw at the redpoint crux (b4/ b3 if you don't count the glue-in first bolt everyone skips). |
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 6, 2009
rating: 5.12a
| This route can be identified as the only route on the main wall with a glue-in bolt for the first bolt. |
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Oct 4, 2009
rating: 5.12a
| I would agree that stick clipping the first bolt is wise, but you should have no need to pre-clip the second. If you blow the crux, the fall on the first bolt is clean other than possibly hitting the rope, especially now that there is a glue in instead of that semi-old SMC rig that used to be there. |
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