Against All Cobbs
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Eric Whitbeck looking "hooottt" on Against All Cob...
This one climbs a little different than most of the climbs on Rad Wall. Start at the right side of the in ground flake, climb through the first 2 bolts enduring a mini crux passing the second bolt. From here beware those aren't jugs like they look like from the ground. Make a long runout to get established below the third bolt, from here there is a good hold for clipping. It is possible to deck from here before getting established on the good hold.
Head up and slightly right passing the crimpy hard crux, once past that rest when possible and climb through an easier crux towards the top. Shares anchors with Crack Attack.
Start between Stroke Me and Crack Attack. Starts on the right side of a large flake sticking out of the ground.
7 bolts to chains shared with Crack Attack
Page making the early crux moves on Against All Co...
Climbing through the crux. May 2013.
|Comments on Against All Cobbs
Jun 18, 2008
That's correct. When I put this route up, the clips made sense. If an extra bolt makes this climb safer for most people, then I have no problem with someone adding one. Eric, I think you're talking about Doug Couleur.
|By Doug Couleur|
Jul 3, 2008
It's not strength, it's fear; no matter how many times I've done this route, I don't want to come off at the beginning. If Jean says go, fine with me, although it shouldn't be a ground fall if the belayer is paying attention, and doesn't weigh a hundred pounds less than the climber.
|By Darren Mabe|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 19, 2009
yeah. i also think there should be another bolt above the second. the holds that look like jugs are really not. i tested the fall a couple of times before getting to the 3rd bolt, and came close to decking. the moves getting to the 3rd are really not that hard, but hard enough that its not worth the risk of decking. if i am up there again and i remember to bring my drill, i will poke one in if no one minds. sounds like the FA, Jean, (above) wouldnt mind.
From: Denver, CO
Apr 19, 2010
I'll actually vote 'no' for adding a bolt. By the time you get high enough where there is deck-potential, it's easy holds to get into the 3rd. Adding a bolt just means you'd have to clip off bad holds. An alert belayer will remove any real danger here.
Adding a sling on the 4th makes clipping easier for the crux that follows.
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 18, 2010
Personally I've never found the move getting to the clipping hold for the third bolt very easy. This move feels just as hard as some of the earlier moves to me. So heads up through this section it is very possible to blow this move which will leave you very close to or on the ground even with a great belayer.
I didn't find the lower hold to be bad to clip off whatsoever, however since this is an established climb for many years now with hundreds of ascents it should probably be left as is. I don't have strong feelings either way though.
|By J. Albers|
May 24, 2010
I would have to agree with Disturbing and Darren on this one. I never found the moves to the third bolt to be particularly easy. Yes, if you have a good belayer, you will not deck, but you will likely cream the sh#t out of them when you come in...not super pleasant. +1 for adding a bolt if anyone is so inclined, though I used to just hang a long draw on my way down from Crack Attack which mitigates the stress a bit.
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 12, 2012
I put in an anchor for this route yesterday, 5/11/2012. It's down and to the left of Crack Attack a few feet where there are a couple of good cobbles for the anchor bolts and keeps the anchor over the route. If you feel you're getting cheated a couple moves by using the new anchor, by all means keep on going to Crack Attack's anchor still. The separate anchor will definitely be nice on those busy weekend days.
I also put an belay anchor bolt in the huge cobble buried in the ground at the base. This should help keep the belayer's head out of the leader's ass in case of a fall above the second bolt.